Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im looking to do some turbo mods fairly soon....

its for the stag (neo 25)

so far ive looked at a kkr430 (heard mixed stuff bout them...

ive heard they will hit full boost at around 3k on a 25... (seems a little low to me?)

a garret 3076r... is this going to be too big for street... do i really need somthing this big... also not tooo cheap..

or a highflow of my stocker to save rooting round...

i wona run around the 15psi mark... nice and safe and not too much for street :P

feedback from ppl whould be great :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325661-turbo-upgrades-what-to-do/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

a garret 3076r... is this going to be too big for street... do i really need somthing this big... also not tooo cheap..

Depends on what rear housing you get, I have a 0.82 on mine and it takes awhile to spool, but when it hits boost, it can be a bit of a handful but as you have AWD, it should be alright. If you want something a bit more responsive, maybe look at a smaller rear housing for the 3076, or maybe get a 3071...but for good response and power, I suppose you cant beat a Hi-Flow.

Go for a Garrett. Sooooo many options, amazing quality, lifetime warranty, well worth the extra coin. You wont be disappointed.

One thing I can suggest man, is that choosing a turbo based on a target boost level is the most backwards way I've ever heard of...

15psi from a 2860 is a sh!tload less air than 15psi from a 3582...

How much power do you want? Choose a turbo that's gonna place your power figure, smack in the middle of the meat of it's efficiency range, take note of what boost it should be putting out, check out the Garrett website for the catalog and compressor efficiency graphs for that. Then tailor a rear housing to suit your application (street car, drag car, circuit car weekend warrior, daily driver etc...)

good luck.

and you can get them with the proprietary nissan housings (new, not remade like some of these custom ones) for around the 1600 mark

go see pete at autosport, he's stocking garrett stuff now. was looking at a 3071 before my plans changed

Horror stories I've heard. I haven't used one personally but I don't put China rubbish on my car. My motto is always do it once, do it properly. I've seen first hand results of the 3071R and they can't be argued with.

In my opinion the KKR gear isn't exactly shit, more tedious to get installed. I was at Horsepower In A Box one time, when Morrie was installing a KKR onto a car. The supplied banjo flange etc, was wrong, so had to have a custom one made/find a replacement. Build quality may be a tad questionable compared to Garrett, HKS turbos.

Personally, if I find build quality questionable, I find myself thinking "what else can go wrong"

With our cars, there are so many options out there it can get confusing. But also, you have the experience of plenty of others before you to help decide what to do. At the end of the day it's your money, spend it how you wish. If you can stretch the budget to a 3071 I'd do it in a heartbeat

HKS 2530 or Garret 2860. Nice 250rwkw with boost starting under 2,000rpm with full boost by 3,500rpm. What more could you ask for?

f**k yeah... I love the powerband from my 2860 on my 2.5l...

Solid 200awkw with 13psi. 4cyl though... Full boost by <1500 :P

Edited by turbo x-trail

0.86 if you want more top end power but a bit of a lag monster, 0.64 if you want something streetable, which is what you will use 99% of the time. Depends too if you are going a top mount or low mount manifold, if you are buying a decent tuned length/stainless manifold, if you have upgraded cams/cam gears and how they are set .... there are lots of other variables too.

Just talking to the hypergear guy, would I want a .86 or .64 rear housing? 300 differsnce to go .86

I am running on of the Hypergear turbos......been running it solid for over 18 months or more now.....it hasnt given me any grief and i am running the 0.63 rear housing......makes a nice 246 rwkw and for the boost that you want to be running it will handle it no probs....by reading your post you are after a good mid range performance and not really care about the top end power which is perfect for the daily streeter.....

I think the OP got abit confused. The OEM housings is in .63 which is the OP6, the next one up is in .82. I'm confident that the OEM .63 housing can push out around 260rwkws, but if the power goal is higher then it is definitely better to go for the .82 rear. You find it makes power lot easier using less boost, with better torque and lot less heat.

The down side is .63 is more responsive, while .82 is laggier, So if its a every day car its probably worth going for the standard high flow, But if this car serves most of its life on tracks then the .82 is definitely better.

So three things should be put into consideration:

1. In future will I want more then 260rwkws.

2. What is my purpose of building this car.

3. Would I prefer the current driving ability with mid-low power range (ie Very aggressive with 1st, 2nd and low 3rd gear.) or some thing with hug mid-high power range (ie very aggressive on 4500RPM+ 2nd, 3rd and 4th).

I've got few dyno sheets on my thread, Please have a read which will be very helpful to your decision.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...