Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bought some good ol' redlight shockproof for my r32 gtr gearbox today, and i had abit of time so i jacked up the car, threw some car stands underneath for good measure and began to try unscrew the fill bolt..

that thing is on soo tight it would not budge, i used a 1/2" breaker bar and it didnt work, ive got limited room under the car so i couldnt slide a longer bar over the breaker bar for leverage.

how did other people go about removing this bolt? any special tricks that worked? its so simple to change the oil i dont wanna take it to a mechanics for it, ild rather do it myself, unless of coarse i have no other choice

all advice would be great ! thanks ! im gonna give it a go tomorow again hehe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325761-undoing-gearbox-drainfill-bolts/
Share on other sites

might be telling you how to suck eggs but were u able to drain it from the bottom bung first?? probably do that.

i had the same issue with my rb25 box it was like whoever last changed the box oil put loctite in the bung thread or something. i just had to get a longer steel rod on the end of the nudge bar for more leverage. that was only possible as i had the car up on the hoist though, otherwise theres only so much leverage you can get.

Take the gearstick out and fill up through there. GTR box is 3.8L?

DO NOT do that. You will be filling up the transfercase with redline then, and that uses Transmatic D!

The shifter in a GTR/GTS-4 does not sit above the gearbox itself, it's on top of the transfercase.

For a GTS-T that would be fine.

If you do not have the correct square drive which is a metric piece then:

I put the 1/2 inch breaker on and kicked it, and or used a big rubber mallet on the end of the bar.

If the center is chewed out, you may need to get a metal bar welded to the bung....

There are other solutions too, just do a search.

Cheers.

might be telling you how to suck eggs but were u able to drain it from the bottom bung first?? probably do that.

i had the same issue with my rb25 box it was like whoever last changed the box oil put loctite in the bung thread or something. i just had to get a longer steel rod on the end of the nudge bar for more leverage. that was only possible as i had the car up on the hoist though, otherwise theres only so much leverage you can get.

DO NOT DO THIS ON A GTR BOX..... YOU WILL FILL THE TRANSFER CASE NOT THE GEARBOX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i had the same prob on my box the dickhead at the work the owner b4 me took it tighen them up way to much.... for the record.... its a plug that holds oil in the gearbox, its a tapered bolt... therefore it dosent need to be tighened up stupidly. just firm it up and than half a turn tight.... its not wheel nut.... or a dam rod bolt. its a just a plug.

ok i was able to undo my filler plug, lucky enough i have a 2post hoist in my garage so it was easyer to work on. for the drain plug this is where the real prob was, i had a rattle gun and all on it and there was no budging. So what i did in the end was, get a drill bit that fit the 1/2inch hole the break bar gose in, and drill it, DO NOT drill right throw, if you do u will break the magnet on the back and will go all over the box on the inside, as its magnetic... lol. Just lightly drill in 2mm-2.5mm and than little bits at a time, it will take the tension off the taper of the bolt/plug. it worked for me, i didnt think it would but after 4hours trying to get it out, it was my only option and it worked. just be careful.

hope this helped. : D

DO NOT fill the gear box via the gear shift hole. On a GTR this goes into the transfer case and uses auto trans fluid. If you're friendly with your mechanic you could ask get him to put it up on a hoist quickly and crack the bung with a rattle gun (a six pack of something might suffice for this favour), then retighten with a wrench enabling you to undo it when you take and the car home and do your oil change. I would also imagine that if you haven't got enough room underneath for an extension on your breaker bar the car could be higher- make sure it's on stands and not just a jack when you get under- as a rule, not just for good measure.

Edited by doo doo
DO NOT do that. You will be filling up the transfercase with redline then, and that uses Transmatic D!

The shifter in a GTR/GTS-4 does not sit above the gearbox itself, it's on top of the transfercase.

For a GTS-T that would be fine.

If you do not have the correct square drive which is a metric piece then:

I put the 1/2 inch breaker on and kicked it, and or used a big rubber mallet on the end of the bar.

If the center is chewed out, you may need to get a metal bar welded to the bung....

There are other solutions too, just do a search.

Cheers.

lol you beat me to it

thanks for the replys !

yeh i wasnt going to fill it through the gearshift, as i read previously its not suitable for GTR's

i dont know how tight the drain plug is cos i didnt try it, but as most GTR owners would know, theres limited room between the "fill" plug and the front drive shaft, this is my concern, also, looks like it was a bitch to get off before as its slightly "rounded" inside. the 1/2" drive still bites hard and didnt slip,

does anyone know what the proper size is for the drain/filler square bolt thing is? where can i buy one from ? ild rather go get the proper tool to avoid the screw from being rounded so much that its farkeed.

f*k sake, get the correct tool for the job!, (what GTRsean said) is it any wonder on skyline box's and diff's the drain plugs are rounded out because people use the end of their breaker bars. If you have the correct tool you will find they come undone with a bit of leverage

Edited by BANGN

success !!

ok so this is how i got my friggin tight fill bolt undone... i used the 1/2" ratchet, put it into the fill bung and let the handle of the ratchet hang down, i then put this electric scissor jack (like the one standard in skylines, but electric) between the gearbox cross member and the ratchet handle, holding the jack with the left hand, my right hand was controlling the up/down switch, started to open the jack, forcing it against the ratchet, within seconds the fill bung cracked loose.

didnt strain myself or graze any knuckles in the process lol

so the 3 litres or so of the old fluid is out, and 3.8 litres of redlight shockproof (blue) went in :P

if someone has tightened that bolt on the gearbox, GOOD LUCK GETTING IT OFF

somehow, me and my bro got it off after about 20 mins, we had an extension bar on it, and both of us where under the car, i had my foot on his foot, and we were both really straining to get it undone, but after some popped veins we got it cracked.

but like others have said, you can fill it from the top on gtst's but not in gtr's

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...