Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as ethanol burns colder than pulp, e85 has differing spark plug requirements, so i figured we need a dedicated thread.

this thread is to list what you are using and how it performs.

just copy and paste this:

[b]CAR:[/b]

[b]POWER:[/b]

[b]TYPE OF ETHANOL:[/b]

[b]PLUG:[/b]

[b]GAP:[/b]

[b]COLD START:[/b]

[b]HOT:[/b]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325835-the-e85-sparkplug-thread/
Share on other sites

ok, i'll get the ball rolling :rolleyes:

CAR: R33 (RB25DET)

POWER: 323rwkw

TYPE OF ETHANOL: Powerplus E85 (made by manildra, from wheatgrain)

PLUG: BCPR7ES

GAP: 0.9

COLD START: horrible, 10 odd cranks in winter

HOT: perfect performance once warmed up

i'm thinking of trying 5's but i would like to see some people's results with cold start on 6's first

With all due respect, there is no one correct plug for any engine or power. The only correct way to determine what is the best plug for your application is to start with one, run it for 5000 and pull it out to see what she looks like. It is a good idea to see what others are running, though, so you know roughly where to start from. But where hp vs heat range is concerned, due to the colder burn of the ethanol, you'd be able to go back to a factory recommended heat range and work it from there.

  • Like 1

Yeah, I realise that but I thought having a reference might be a good idea for the future.

The other spark plug thread has determined a few fail safe options over the time it has been running And I am hoping for a similar result here :P

I might go for 6's @ 1.1 next time and see how I go...

CAR: M35 Stagea

POWER: 250awkw

TYPE OF ETHANOL: Powerplus E85

PLUG: Denso IKH22

GAP: 1.1

COLD START: Woeful, I have to add 10% unleaded this time of year to get it to fire. Started this morning at 3 degrees with little issue.

HOT: Perfect.

From my experience ethanol burns hotter and faster when under high boost pressures, a colder plug will be fine. I doubt I will be changing plugs just to get the engine to start better.

Ethanol doesn't evaporate below 15 degrees which is why we have issues, its the petrol mixed in that fires for the first few rotations.

Yeah... This is the reason we don't run e100 afaik

cold start doesn't really bother me too much, it's annoying when I am dailying it, but the ke70 should be finished pretty soon.... But I'll bet dollars to dimes I'll have that thing turboed and on the juice within 6 months anyway :P

for the guys having cold start issues, add a massive amount of fuel, like 50% and take timing back to 0 or 5 degrees. it was something said by a tuner from the states, doesnt seem to have cold start issues, even below 0*c.

There are a few drawbacks I see with that...

If you flood the bore with liquid ethanol it will run down past the rings into the oil and help to break it down.

It is still only the petrol firing, if you ran e100 it still wouldn't want to start well, also with below zero temps.

It would require an arftermarket ecu for those that just run larger injectors or higher fuel rail pressures.

I would have to give up the knock signal on my Emanage in order to wire in the temp signal, then I would have to get a cold retune.

I want to fit a small (say one litre) petrol canister in the engine bay, probably in 3 inch stainless pipe. I have the original fuel pump to slide in the pipe and one of the stock 370cc injectors will install nicely into the manifold. Power these from a simple push button on the dash and you're set. I have seen guys in the US running simpler systems they work very well and save wasting ethanol at startup

yeah just had a quick look over what i thought i read ages ago. seems its only good down to 5-10 degrees C, below 5 it doesnt work. i was confusing it with another one that cold started fine in freezing weather, but not on E85

I think e85 cold starting will be an issue for those with lower compression more so than cold plugs, my VQ25det only runs 8.5:1 compared to 9:1 for the stock RB's. I need boost at startup.

I would really like to see somebody build an ethanol specific high compression engine with high boost, wish I had the funds to build one myself. Perhaps one day... if I keep pushing this one... :down:

did you run that gap on pulp?

No, it was .8 from memory.

I think e85 cold starting will be an issue for those with lower compression more so than cold plugs, my VQ25det only runs 8.5:1 compared to 9:1 for the stock RB's. I need boost at startup.

I would really like to see somebody build an ethanol specific high compression engine with high boost, wish I had the funds to build one myself. Perhaps one day... if I keep pushing this one... :down:

One of my friends has a 9.5:1 CR (RB25/30) and his is a pig to start aswell.

i would have thought to achieve better cold start you'd want to lean it off a fair bit.

how many tuners spend enough time on the cold start map anyway... the answer is not enough.

+1

Spark plug is going to have f**k all effect on cold start - unless it's fouled of course

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...