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  Ant97GTR said:
I know you have said it was aligned twice but was this done by a laser or by string line?

Last time it was done by Road and Race performance of Rydalmere.

Im still thinking it may be the 15mm spring height difference?

So what would be the best springs to use to replace.

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Dom is that the same silver item you took me for a wrap in some months ago? (came to buy helmets etc I was the wog).

Perhaps its karma, all those half nekid pics of u in bed with wads of cash LOL

15mm lower on one corner???!!!!! and yet you are asking about wheel alignment etc?? How if this car is on standard suspension is one corner 15mm lower, further to that what does the VDC etc think is going on when it is already seeing Gs going back and left?? DMS is good, MCA is BETTER. used both on rally cars. Suspension setup and tuning effects a car so much more than you will ever believe. My RS Impreza rally car, with DMS was unreal on one setting, but I felt it could go softer, we took 2 clicks (of 20) out of it, spent the next 2 stages chasing the front on hard pack, then the road would turn muddy and I could not make it go straight, back one click, and heaven!!!

agree. everyone is talking about all sorts of variables but I cant get over the drop on the rear passenger corner, something major wrong there. I wouldn't be investigating wheel or tyre setup until the suspension has been thoroughly inspected. sounds like you are a serious driver so might as well look at a full coilover setup while your at it. Lots of people have gone for JRZ and have had very good results. I have used MCA. good first up results even with suspension being only crudely setup for my first track day on it, much work with tuning to come.

  Dominic said:
Last time it was done by Road and Race performance of Rydalmere.

Im still thinking it may be the 15mm spring height difference?

So what would be the best springs to use to replace.

Why keep experimenting and spending the money over and over?

Just take it to Col Crawford Nissan Performance Centre at Brookvale. They are a GT-R dealer, properly

trained and equipped to fix your car and align it to factory street or race specs on a fantastic fully interactive alignment machine

(the only other one like it I saw doing my other car at Marshalls Mercedes in Parramatta, but there may be others out there)

Ask Matt or Steve for advice and they will check your total suspension for any faults.

Before you throw out the factory set up check first what's wrong with it.

BTW, you should be able to go through Turn 1 at EC at 180kph in a stock car, with stock Bridgestones, set on 3 x R with street spec camber, lap after lap, without going sideways and getting a heart attack ! ;)

At this stage I may drop the car into DMS and get them to build a set of coilovers and springs to suit the car being a rally car.

Fair price and much closer.

The car is a JDM unregistered stripped out race car with cage.

Id love to take it to a Nissan dealer but they are so hard up they wont even sell you an oil filter if you have a JDM, lucky the GTR uses the same oil filter as a Ford Telstar/Mazda 626.

Edited by Dominic

that is a good way to go for what you want. but personally I'd try and sort your problem before changing stuff. as you'd hate to carry it over to a new set-up. there is something fundamentally wrong for it to be handling as evil as you say it is.

My concern is there may be a VDC issue causing it rather than springs and wheel alignment, neither of which GTR is 'particularly' sensitive to from a stance viewpoint

But if its sideways everywhere then its pretty much in 2WD.....Regardless we can fix :P

Edited by Martin Donnon

Now I have a bit more time I can advise you of the correct process Dominic.

A normal power run for your car should give you a Torque Split front/rear curve that stays at around 50% the whole way through the run, possibly heading towards a rear split of 60% towards the end. If there is a massive variance in this then you will have a VDC issue. The very first thing to do is read, note, and then clear the codes with your Cobb Accessport. If this does not fix the issue then you potentially have a transmission issue with the front output shaft assy of the GKN magnetic clutch.

Edited by Martin Donnon

I'll say it again, 15mm of negative wedge (which is what you've got with the left rear being 15mmm lower) is HUGE and is going to cause the car to be very loose in left hand turns (T1 at EC). By all means keep looking for driveline problems, but don't overlook the most basic setup problem your car has.

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