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Nick, if you want something for the stock position, there's the defi din set. 2 temp guages (oil and water) and 1 pressure (oil)

Fit straight in, and they're Defi so they work. Not cheap though, around $500 for set last time i checked.

http://www.defi-shop.com/product/din/din_top.html

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These the local retailer or are there other recommended places? Be interested in views on how readable these are given their location and size. Also, do they come with / will I need to replace / upgrade senders etc? I'm presuming they connect striaght up or is there a 'trick' to this stuff?

<Australia>

PRO-Speed Racing

465 Pacific Hwy, Wyoming,

NSW, 2250 Australia

Phone : 61-418436861

Fax : 61-243233753

Email :[email protected]

Web : http://www.prospeedracing.com.au

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I mounted mine up high on the left of the binnacle. Just srewed it into the dash pad :D

They're visible with only eye movement, as opposed to the factory 3-gauge position which is a waste of time, it's a head twist to see them, and trust me, you'll have a bit on.

I'd recommend two large water temp and boost gauges (both with audible and visible warnings), and just a bright red light for oil pressure.

(Even boost could really just be the warnings, but mine often went overboost and I liked the gauge to see how far over, ie, if it was worth backing off. It never was :))

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.... the factory 3-gauge position which is a waste of time, it's a head twist to see them, and trust me, you'll have a bit on.

QFT.

I struggle to get time to even look at the tacho. Luckily my last 2 rally cars have had an effective rev limiter / warning system. The rotary had the alternator light come on when I revved past 9000RPM and threw the belt, and the Civic has an 8800RPM cut. Both have been used extensively :D

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Yeah I found the little LED shift lights things a god send for rally work. I don't even look at it but I can still "see" when it turns red so I know to shift up. I also like this style as opposed to the single light as I also have a lower setting for the blue ones so that when the car is under 3,500pm (aka off boost) no lights are on - so I know to shift down!

I actually prefer the blue/red combo to the green/yellow/red combo for this reason. I just want to try and see blue lights constantly.

Shift_I_Straight.jpg

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Electric dash...they are pretty cheap these days and rather than have gauges, then shift lights etc they are all packaged in one. You also get g-sensors so get to see if susp mods or different tyres are actually helping lateral grip when doing development work on the circuit. Also have lap timers, also is loggable so you can lo things like oil pressure, and for the cost of things like a pressure sensor can alos run things like fuel pressure etc etc all with warning lights.

Consider Racepac, AiM , PI...you can buy used PI out of UK race cars with sensors for a decent price considering the quality of the gear. Speak to Meridian, they have afew options which they can look at while doing the cage, thoguh they cost a bit more then some places

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the defi din guages are pretty readable for their size. they do come with all needed sensors and wiring etc. very easy to fit and use.

my advice though would be go with some defi-link guages. no need for the bling BF series ones, the plain defi link are easier to read anyway.

no need for the 60mm the 52mm are fine and a bit less obtrusive. they come with sensors etc too. and all top quality. very easy to wire up as you buy the controller and get it power and ground and then plug one gauge into it, every other gauge then daisy chains off the one next to it. no mess.

they have fully adjustable warnings both visual (red flashing light on each gauge) and audible (loud buzzer). so you can set oil pressure to go off when pressure drops below 2bar, and set the temps where you want them. also get a fuel pressure one and you can set that too. they also have record function as a basic form of datalogging. so you can record for a stage and watch it afterwards to see what was happening with temps, boost, oil pressure etc during the stage.

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Well, there is some stuff to think about. All great suggestions - thank you. Fuel pressure is not something I'd considered. Last I spoke to my engine builder he said the stock GTR fuel pump is a great unit and not to waste money upgrading. Now, that comment may well have been considering street and occassional track use, so may not be accurate. What say the experts on fuel delivery. Replace the stock fuel pump with? My car is running nearly 300rwkw. Not sure what is legal under the regs?

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For those who I PMed re nav cost sharing I thank you all for your considered and detailed responses. Thought I'd post up as you'll all talk amongst yourselves and find out I sent the same PM to several of you. I figured it would be fairly subjective topic, so great to get a varied response. Just didn't want people thinking I was being disingenuous.

Cheers.

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So how did we go?

Did we have similar responses? :D

All very much along the same lines, although you should have seen what Tim wrote! (kidding!) :) . If you're a rich driver, you pay. If not then you share cost as you can and as you see fair. Depends on experience of the nav and which way the wind is blowing. I just wanted to be fair to me and my nav in this conversation and will give him each of your responses so he can make a judgment himself and we'll talk it through from there. Again, thanks.

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Well, there is some stuff to think about. All great suggestions - thank you. Fuel pressure is not something I'd considered. Last I spoke to my engine builder he said the stock GTR fuel pump is a great unit and not to waste money upgrading. Now, that comment may well have been considering street and occassional track use, so may not be accurate. What say the experts on fuel delivery. Replace the stock fuel pump with? My car is running nearly 300rwkw. Not sure what is legal under the regs?

yeah GTR fuel pumps are great but 32 pumps are bloody old by now and do fail. I would just replace it with a nismo pump. easy direct fit pump and flows enough to supply fuel to 6 X 700cc injectors if need be. fuel pressure is bloody important and can be intermittent fault which makes it hard to catch without a fuel pressure gauge. with the gauge any fault in fuel delivery will be instantly apparent. could save you an engine one day....

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yep, that's the pump. and like marlin said give link a try. if they are in the ballpark just buy it off them. around $500 or so is average. maybe $600 though with todays crappy AUD.

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