Jump to content
SAU Community

Clutch Power Ratings?


Recommended Posts

Just doing some research into clutches

Just wondering what power ratings some clutches are

Mainly looking at NPC and Exedy for the moment till i get emails back from other places

Car is 194rwkw atm but will be chasing about 290rwkw (Prob at the most) later this year or next year

so probably a clutch good for 300-320rwkw?

If anyone can tell me what theyve come across, what there using and what they would recommend it would be much appreciated

BTW: Car is pretty much 99% street driven, occasional 1/4 mile runs for a bit of fun, maybe 4 times a year at the most

It has an EXEDY cushion button clutch in it atm that has lasted me 2 years and has been a good clutch, has only just started slipping now and im not sure why, pretty sure it was good for 260kw and I have less then that but anyway

anyways, thanks in advance for any help

Callan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my advice for 300rwkw rwd, exedy organic will be good enough and it'll still drive like a normal car.

if you want to slide it maybe consider a cushion button clutch..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't know about Exedy in particular, but my experience so far has been bad with organic clutches. Earlier this year, driving sedately at 60 on the way home from work running a max of 174rwhp mine slipped and quickly died.

I'm looking to crack 300rwkW in a few weeks, in the same scenario as you and I'm running an RPM ceramic at the moment, the heaviest they make and I'm very happy so far. Although I'd like to have gone exedy/Jim Berry I just picked this one up because my girlfriend's parents supply 'em and it was cheap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just ordered an NPC 10" Sprung button clutch, sounded the go and wasnt overly pricey :down:

Had a few mates with NPC clutches that reakon they were good so ill see how this one goes, Thanks for all the advice, ill try and remember to post how the clutch goes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys

Just in case anyone was interested.... I got the clutch in last night and have started driving it and its actually suprisingly good

I was expecting hard pedal and jerky button clutch engagement but it feels nearly as light as my stock clutch! much lighter then the exedy cushion button i had in there before. And its pretty good in terms of engagement, i can do a pretty normal take off from the lights already

Its still got that bite of a button clutch but compared to the last time i drove button well im really impressed

If anyone wants to know it was:

NPC 10" Sprung button Clutch (R33 GTST)

Im very happy with it :wub:

Callan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Really? The guy I talked to was pretty helpful and I had a chat for a bout 15mins to work out what clutch would be best

helpful yes,

my clutch failed and they failed to accept responsibility

then they beated around the bush trying to point the blame on contamination

bah, i just went to another clutch joint. dime a dozen

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm making 250rwkWs and using a hybrid kit

- R32 GT-R 1.1 tonne Exedy Pressure Plate

- R33 GTS-t Sport Ceramic 3-Puk Clutch Plate

- R32 GT-R Nismo Big Bore Clutch Slave

- R32 GT-R Nismo Pivot Point

Car is quite easy to drive, some chatter and I abuse the shiet out of my clutch, holds well :banana:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Daily - 2011 Audi A5 And the camper VW transporter T5          
    • Wow mate that's huge, congrats. Glad you found better people to deal with and all seems like it's going in the right direction.
    • The best setting for street is what gives the best tyres wear for your driving style Different tyres like different camber You want the whole surface of the tread to wear flat, if the inside of the tyre is wearing more than the outside reduce camber settings For toe, have the minimum amount to give the handling you want Caster, from my experience if you can adjust it, is as much as you can get without clearance issues And while -2.5° of camber on the front might work well with good tyres for "spirited" cornering, it may be too much for a street car Lots of front camber will effect braking Just like to much rear camber will effect rear traction (rwd), and braking  When I set my Bogan Cruise Ship (VX SS) up for drags I tested how much tyre width I actually had in the rear by doing a hard launch (skid), it originally had -1.5° in the rear, and you could see that the tyre wasn't putting down alot of the tread, I maxed out the settings to get as little camber as I could with the OEM adjustment and some camber bushings and got it down to just under -0.5° with 0 toe, that gave me a fair bit more "rubber on the road" and helped it hook up for my 60' and my 0-100kph And with -1.5° in the front the big old boat handles fine on the street and my tyre wear is nice and even on both front and rear tyres (currently Hankook RS4's) As for semi slicks at the track, again, it depends on alot more IRT the suspension, the track and lots of other things, so, I'll leave that up to people who have more experience, especially with a AWD In saying this, street settings are pretty easy, just look at the tyre wear Meh, Necro thread, it's late at night, and I has been drinking beer
    • Thought I'd give an update. There needs to be scarce details in some areas due to ongoing discussions. Here's the journey of trying to make the booked registration appointment (again). Sent a complaint to Car Inspect outlining the concerns and made some demands. Went to a service center in Geelong, got assaulted with bullshit items on the RWC, as you know. Tried to quote $2.5k AND wanted a structural report Only seemed to be one place around Geelong that does them, they demand $495 just to end up telling me it's f**ked, at least $11k to fix and tried to sell me his own Skyline in the process (bro, wtf?) Started stressing about what I'm supposed to do with this possible pile of steel. Awaiting that, I was sent an angel friend who works in Melbourne and knows real mechanics and body shops.  They laughed at the reported quotes (don't get work done in Geelong) Car underwent some front surgery and brought back better They then sent it to the mechanics for RWC Registration appointment is two days away at this point. Mechanics pointed out two issues: driver's seat and shocks - that's it. He offered couple options and I chose coilovers. Frantically I scoured the jungle realm that is Facebook Marketplace (again). Found what looks to be a decent Series 1 seat actually - $100 Guy is friendly, offers to bring the seat with a colleague who's heading to Geelong (thanks man, that was cool) Seat arrived, looks good. Throw it in my car and drive to Melbourne and drop it to mechanic T-1 day, mechanic reckons job will be done for the fronts only, gets it done by 4PM Mechanic heads to get the coil-overs that night as a favour to help me make the appointment Get driven to Melbourne, drove the car back - RWC Unlocked! ✅ VicRoads tomorrow, the goal is close now. 🙂
×
×
  • Create New...