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hey mat i dont know if you take criticism from a teenager but i got some suggestions...the setting being a sunset, the car should be quite a bit darker....and to make it look that little bit more realistic you should cut the stuff you see from the old background in the windows out and then darken the new parts behind the windows to make it look real..

Must admit I wasn't sure I agreed when I read this but I think you were right

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The best analogy I've heard (or read) regarding the relationship between Aperture and Shutter Speed was in relation to a water tap - the wider you open the tap (i.e. the lower the Aperture value and hence wider the opening), the less time you have to have that tap open (i.e. the faster the shutter speed you can use) to let the water flow (i.e. let light into the lens and onto the sensor or film)...

That's a good analogy.

I like to look at the lenses themselves, for instance the 50mm range of lenses starting from 1.2 to 1.8. You'll notice that the 1.2 lens has a much wider lenses than the 1.8, that's your first clue on aperture size. Using these prime lenses as an example

- the lower the number the bigger the lens size, the more light it lets in, is faster

- the higher the number the smaller the lens size is, the less light it lets in, is slower

So the 1.2 aperture is much better than the 1.8 because the lenses are much bigger, lets in more light and is faster in taking the same picture as the 1.8 lens with the exact same lighting. Another indicator of the 1.2 being a better lens is the price, it is much much more expensive than the 1.8!

You'll want a lower aperture setting for action shot or low light environment such as indoors especially if you are hand holding your camera. Cameras have more trouble "grasping" dark environments and will take longer to process when you take a picture with a higher aperture setting, that's why if you move while the camera is still taking the photo the image will appear blurry! That is also why we have to use tripods!

Another way to compensate for lenses with a higher aperture is to use flash. Flashes will allow cameras to take photos of subjects as if they are appearing in nice bright daylight environments. Of course, you don't (and can't) always use a flash for photography (ie. museums, badminton matches etc), which is why it is better to use fast lenses with lower aperture settings.

A lower aperture setting will also give you an increased "bokeh" effect, meaning that when you take a picture of a dog or an insect, you can get part of your subject in focus (foreground) and the rest out of focus (background). A higher aperture settings will not let you do this, but it will get everything in the image frame in focus.

What photographers want => lenses that allow as much light in as possible, this increase gives them better control on lighting because it is easier and faster to control a lighter environment than a dark one. That's what Aperture is all about, the AMOUNT of light.

Shutter speed is the capturing speed when taking a picture. This one is about capturing your subject "in time".

Are you shooting fast moving subjects? sports? increase the shutter speed. A good example is the traffic speed camera LOL

Are you shooting something that flows or moves slowly and you want to put that to effect in your photos? decrease the shutter speed. A good example is a star trail, northern lights or waterfalls (provided that you are using filters to let in less light).

Shutter speed affects lighting as well, the quicker the shutter the less light it will allow, the slower the shutter the more light it will allow => that's what shutter speed is all about, the TIME for light.

For the traffic speed camera to take a quick photo of your number plates, it has to make sure that there is plenty of light to see your plates and capture it quickly using a high shutter speed. To ensure that there is enough light it needs in the little time that is has, it needs a lower aperture setting. This will be good enough during daylight but if the weather is poor or dark it won't be enough, it needs a flash, and a really big one too.

Capturing a waterfall in the daytime with a slower shutter speed will increase the light. Which means that the image will appear too bright even if you set the aperture higher. In this case you will need to resort to filters that act like "sunglasses" to make the environment look darker while giving the camera more time to add more light while it takes it waits for the shutter to elapse.

Slightly longer analogy but yeah, its layman!

Great shot dan. strong composition. only thing I could possibly to suggest would be to add a gradient to the sky, similar to what a CPL would give it. Not that it needs but, but if you wanted something to try :D nice work nigga.

Great shot dan. strong composition. only thing I could possibly to suggest would be to add a gradient to the sky, similar to what a CPL would give it. Not that it needs but, but if you wanted something to try :) nice work nigga.

Can you do it for me? I just ran I through lightroom?

Here's an oddball car for you all - I've heard of Ramblers before because a school friend's parents owned a MASSIVE land-yacht of a wagon called a Rambler Matador, but I have no idea what model this particular car is:

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This weeks project 365 ;)

Also, if anyone can be bothered please go to this link CLICK HERE and vote for my North Narrabeen Sunset shot called "The Path to Freedom". Its about half way down. Much appreciated!!

Photos from the trackday will be posted on wednesday/thursday after PI has sorted through what they want.

Read the blog post to see my newest addition to my photography addiction!

CLICK HERE!

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Morning gents!

PI = performance imports yeah? (VOTED)

There was a car show yesterday just down the road. Went and checked it out. here's a few pics. CC me if you have any thoughts. I've tried to move away from usual oversaturated style to see how they turn out.

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Bonus pic!

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