Boost Wtf?

[GTRAAH]

OK so i take it back to my tuner and told him its over boosting, because the last time he set it there was a rip in the intake hose he didnt know about, couple months later i changed to alluminuim pipes, and the car went crazy so i told him i think you need to set the boost again because of the rip all the extra air is going through now, so took it to him and he was looking on his computer and said ok thats set to 20psi and re-tuned etc... i take my car out today and said to my self lets check the exact boost it goes too, so i reset the peak, and took it for a spin first was 22.7 psi, second run even harder 23.4 psi and third time i gave it REALLY hard 23.9psi.

Can someone tell me if his boost reading machine would be diff to the one i have ? How does he say its boosting at this and my controller says different, i have not called him yet as i only noticed it tonight.

Edited July 4, 2010 by GTRAAH

[JonnoHR31]

probs a small spike combined with a slight difference in readings. get someone to watch it all the way to redline and see if it is a small spike or constant

[GTRAAH]

probs a small spike combined with a slight difference in readings. get someone to watch it all the way to redline and see if it is a small spike or constant

If its a small spike, is that dangerous for the stock internals?

[JonnoHR31]

not unless your right on the edge power wise

[SargeRX8]

That's fine. You need to remember he tuned the car on dyno. The load will be differen than road. My car is set to 12psi, I've got the same controller, and sometimes in will hit 11.8 and there abouts. With a full car it will get to about 13.5 but it doesn't hold this level. Watch the boost gauge, it spikes and drops. It's fine. If it concerns you, turn the main % down a little and try again. Don't play with th other settings. Grab the knob n turn it down slowly.

[GTRAAH]

Sarge thats exactly what my friend said you sound like you know what ur talking about. Do you think its dangerous for the engine cause of the power im running, one more question if i turn the gain down alittle would the performance drop?

Ps: im running 330awkw i have all the supporting mods accept for the bottom end (still stock).

Edited July 4, 2010 by GTRAAH

[R31Nismoid]

330rwkw in a R32, you are on borrowed time anyway IMO.

[GTRAAH]

330rwkw in a R32, you are on borrowed time anyway IMO.

0.o Borrowed time? r32 ?Mate you must be talkng the stock bottom end, Whats that got to do with an r32? R32 is just the shell and older bits inside the engine bay, Once i change all the older bits why would it be on borrowed time?

Ps:My car is 330AWKW is that the same as RWKW?

Edited July 4, 2010 by GTRAAH

[GTRAAH]

R31 nismoid i think i understand what you were talking about, are you saying it doesnt matter about the spike because with that bottom end im on borrowed time anyway? BTW its not like i thrash it every day i only drive it on weekend, i heard of people that run more power on stock bottom end and drive it alot more then me. Lasted them a few years of crazy driving.

[SargeRX8]

Those spikes won't be enough to kill the engine but they're not gonna help in prolonging it's life. If your car was tuned to make 330atw on 20psi then tuning your gain down will not affect it as the car was tuned on 20psi. Honestly, leave it man. Your pistons aren't going to shoot through your block. They are pretty strong. A rb26 is good for about 500hp without changing engine internals. Strong motors. I think r31 thought you meant gtst maybe?

[R31Nismoid]

We are talking about the motor here, so of course that is what I'm talking about...

Not as if the panels are just going to fall off or the seat go through the floor hehe.

It's an old motor. All it is to it really. Just because someone else's motor has not let go is not really a good example or proof that yours will be fine.

Seen more than one 330rwkw RB26 let go. Spiking boost is not good either way and it shouldnt be occuring with good boost control.

If you cannot afford the rebuild, then simply don't chase every last KW of power (which @ 330rwkw/20psi, is exactly what you are doing)

IMO 17psi/300rwkw would be a much more appropriate figure for an old engine if you aren't ready for it to let go.

[GTRAAH]

We are talking about the motor here, so of course that is what I'm talking about...

Not as if the panels are just going to fall off or the seat go through the floor hehe.

It's an old motor. All it is to it really. Just because someone else's motor has not let go is not really a good example or proof that yours will be fine.

Seen more than one 330rwkw RB26 let go. Spiking boost is not good either way and it shouldnt be occuring with good boost control.

If you cannot afford the rebuild, then simply don't chase every last KW of power (which @ 330rwkw/20psi, is exactly what you are doing)

IMO 17psi/300rwkw would be a much more appropriate figure for an old engine if you aren't ready for it to let go.

I will do the rebuild soon, When you say spiking boost should not be occuring with a good boost controller, then why is it happening with mine? Tuner recons could be the cold weather and it wouldnt be boosting at the high boost.... smal spikes are common and he told me to do what Sarge said turn the gain down slightly if it worrys me, he was happy with that power no knock no ping runs healthy he said.

[R31Nismoid]

A 4psi spike is not small in my book, that is a reasonable spike and i would not be happy with that.

Upto you either way. It's your decision.

[GTRAAH]

A 4psi spike is not small in my book, that is a reasonable spike and i would not be happy with that.

Upto you either way. It's your decision.

Ok so i will just turn the gain down and try boost again, Sounds like an easy fix

[snozzle]

Yeah 4psi boost spike is pretty much what im getting and im not happy with it.

320kw on stock r32 engine and boost spikes - your a brave man!

[GTRAAH]

Yeah 4psi boost spike is pretty much what im getting and im not happy with it.

320kw on stock r32 engine and boost spikes - your a brave man!

So that happens with yours? how come you havent fixed it? isnt it an easy adjustment as im being told? 330kw to be precise lol Brave? nah its like not im doing 330kw power all the time, most of the time when boost on the streets you wouldnt see that much anyway, plus all compression is good and i have looked after the engine well.

[STATUS]

drop the gain down, what is it atm and what is the start boost set to in the controller?

The duty cycle will most likely be spot on just the gain and start boost needs adjusting, best bet do it yourself on the road.

[GTRAAH]

i dont know what all the settings are, but i will drop the gain down alittle and then see what it peaks at.

[GTRAAH]

Can some one tell me what GAIN means, its not the boost setting is it? if you lower it what is it actually doing the power? I was told if i lower it abit it wont change the power level , so then wat is it actually doing,.. in dummy language please lol

[GDZ-14R]

It seems like this is becoming a weekly thread where people are getting similar results with Profec B's, maybe we should rethink recommending these shitty things... I have had nothing but trouble with mine, two sets of turbos, shortest possible lines, actuators, tuners, bla-bla-bla...

It is true that boost should be checked on the road by the tuner after dynoing in the perfect world, as spikes often happen with different load on the street.

With my old turbo setup i tuned the boost curve much flatter (MFD graph) by lowering the gain slightly and the boost level that the wastegate begins to open at. Give it a go.

BTW, what turbos and actuators are you using?