Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive heard a few people converting a GTR box to rwd, how hard is it? the welding wont be a problem, but not sure whats

involved with the guts of the transfer case, also will a 20 clutch fit or is the gtr box input shaft bigger? Thanks Luke

Edited by boostn32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327844-gtr-box-converted-to-rwd/
Share on other sites

Shop around, i paid $1300 for mine with a tailshaft/yoke etc.

GTR gearboxes go for around what, $1100 and its time and effort.

Not to mention depending on the previous life - you could be easily breaking 3rd gear as well.

I'd never go near a GTR box in RWD TBH.

you gave no reason and for that i see no reason

They have a harder life and shred 3rd gear a lot, for only saving $200 you have to modify the box quite a lot and then run the risk of it being in far worse condition than the 2wd box. Not worth it for a $200 saving.

This is essentially what nismoid said.

Edited by Rolls

But it is a good question. R32 GTR gearboxes can be had for as little as $500 (Yes I know, what is the condition)

But the reason I am interested is it opens up a world of possibilities for me :) I would love to buy a GTR box that is for sale at the moment that has a full OS Giken close ratio 5 spd gear set in it. Throwing a GTR box in my R32 GTSt also means that I could probably use a botl in R32 carbon propshaft with the GTR rear cradle I have to install in the car.

So, if someone knows whats involved then I am interested, because it means I can do some cool stuff to my drivetrain that will actually make my car quicker, not just more reliable as is the case with the RB25 box. It is more appealing to mod a gbox housing then get custom length carbon propshaft and buy the OS Giken gearset new and install it....

But it is a good question. R32 GTR gearboxes can be had for as little as $500 (Yes I know, what is the condition)

But the reason I am interested is it opens up a world of possibilities for me :) I would love to buy a GTR box that is for sale at the moment that has a full OS Giken close ratio 5 spd gear set in it. Throwing a GTR box in my R32 GTSt also means that I could probably use a botl in R32 carbon propshaft with the GTR rear cradle I have to install in the car.

So, if someone knows whats involved then I am interested, because it means I can do some cool stuff to my drivetrain that will actually make my car quicker, not just more reliable as is the case with the RB25 box. It is more appealing to mod a gbox housing then get custom length carbon propshaft and buy the OS Giken gearset new and install it....

Glad someone's not arrogant. it was a simple question, maybe to simple for some.

and to add i have found a gtr box that has been converted and had new syncros, and also another gtr box with tailshaft for less than 1k.

for those that say they would never touch one i would rather listen to some one that knows a bit more. There advice its a better option than a 25 box and proven.

Edited by boostn32

It's not a better option and there is no way they can prove that it is.....basically, an RB26DETT gearbox is an RB25DET gearbox with a transfer case on the back. Not only do you have more weight hanging off the back due to the Attessa clutch drum, but you have also got to factor in the cost of modifying your tailshaft as the GTR one is different.

The clutches are the same as long as you get an R32 GTR gearbox pre 07/91 and it's a push type. They are all the same....RB20, 25, 26 etc.

There is no strength gain from going to RB26 gearbox as the internals are identical to RB25.

I just find it awkward that you would want to hack apart a GTR gearbox when it will cost roughly the same to buy an RB25 one that will go straight in, will be as strong, and will not have as much rotational mass to turn as the butchered GTR one.

On the subject of why a GTR box is not going to be as strong....that is only true for second hand ones that have not been rebuilt. Because more torque and more revs are usually put through them, 2nd, 3rd and 5th synchros cop a punishment...but that goes the same mostly for the RB25 ones getting around. As soon as ppl stop paying $1500+ for f**ked RB25 boxes, then the prices will start coming down to 'fair' levels.

Arrogant? Oh please.

If you want to throw around words. - I think you are being rather ignorant of the situation & realistic costs.

The "best" of the GTR 5-speed is the R33 SIII (S3) GTR box. Same box you require if you want to fit a OS gearset for instance.

Series 1&2 boxes need additional parts to be purchased as part of the gearset install.

So clearly here there is a difference, and S3 boxes sell for what i said above. By all means gamble your money on a cheaper box, however check with your local casino what the odd's are for betting on black before you do so.

hey,

I am currently half way through doing two of these conversions. Im doing the first one becasue my mate had a GTR he crashed and we are putting the motor and box into his s13. And the other one Im doing because I know how easy it is, and I had a rb25 in my r32 with a rb20 gearbox, so I got a RB26 box for $600 delivered to nth qld from adelaide.

Basically if you blow a box you can just pull off the rear housing and bolt it onto a new rb26 box. I pulled all the clutch packs off it and gutted the silent chain and angle grinded the transfer case off it. Keep an eye on my build thread in the projects and overhauls topic. I havent finished even the initial post in there but once I do I will post up pics of the modded transfer case.

I think its a great idea if you have a rb26 box laying around. They can be had for so cheap

Arrogant? Oh please.

If you want to throw around words. - I think you are being rather ignorant of the situation & realistic costs.

The "best" of the GTR 5-speed is the R33 SIII (S3) GTR box. Same box you require if you want to fit a OS gearset for instance.

Series 1&2 boxes need additional parts to be purchased as part of the gearset install.

So clearly here there is a difference, and S3 boxes sell for what i said above. By all means gamble your money on a cheaper box, however check with your local casino what the odd's are for betting on black before you do so.

now thats all worth adding to this post, and i will take it all on board as its usefull information, yes i understand where your comming from now.

choku_dori i will keep an eye on your box transfermation...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...