Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

Thought I will create a thread detailing my radiator upgrade.

Decided to buy an ASI 52mm radiator for r32 gtst

As with all chinese radiators, the water temp sensor thread is the wrong size and hence it has to be enlarged in order to fit the factory sensor.

Once fitted, there is no space for the factory engine fan and shroud. (unless you heavily chop into both)

When fitted, there was only a clearance of 6.8cm between the radiator and the power steering pump pulley. Therefore only the slimmest thermofans on the market would be my only option.

I ended up purchasing Flex-a-lite 420 slimline thermofans (6.7cm thick)

Flexalite_410_03.jpg

Brackets also needed to be purchased to fit the thermofan onto the radiator.

The power steering lines also got in the way. Therefore they were modified so they ran to the side of the pump as shown below. You can see the U-bracket which used to guide the hoses.

photo5141024x768.jpg

Final results; There is 1-2mm clearance between the pulley and the plastic mesh surrounding the fan blades. The fan blades sit further in, so if there is any movement, it will not hit the blades.

photo5151024x768.jpg

photo5161024x768.jpg

Thanks to Revzone in Ringwood, Victoria for installing the lot! (customizing the power steering lines and mounting the thermofans onto the radiator)

Conclusion:

- Dont get 52mm radiator :banana:

- Whilst driving on the street, water temps sit on 78-80degrees with no thermofans running (weather temperatures ranging from 8degrees - 18 degrees)

Hopefully others will realise the challenges of fitting a 52mm radiator and have a good think about it before purchasing.

Thanks again to Revzone

- Patrick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327859-52mm-radiator-in-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites

Just for other curious members' info, I also have one of these fitted to my RB26. With the factory fan + fan shroud fitted to it, there is only a TINY gap between the fan and the harmonic balancer (not sure if my long nose crank / TuffBond harmonic balancer means more or less space). This also seems to amplify the noise of the fan quite a bit :S

Just for other curious members' info, I also have one of these fitted to my RB26. With the factory fan + fan shroud fitted to it, there is only a TINY gap between the fan and the harmonic balancer (not sure if my long nose crank / TuffBond harmonic balancer means more or less space). This also seems to amplify the noise of the fan quite a bit :S

The "long nose" crank is just a longer oil pump drive, it doesn't change where the harmonic balancer sits. The aftermarket balancer is probably bigger though.

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...