Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Below are my results for a R34 Gauge Cluster install. It was all custom and took around 30 minutes to complete, but around 3 hours to work out how to mount them properly.

I used Apexi 60mm gauges, as I found 52mm too small.

The focus was on the driver, hence why they face the driver. I also painted all the plastic surfaces 'matte black' - the colour which my car is going to be.

Comments welcome.

memories0547.jpg

memories0548.jpg

memories0552.jpg

memories0553.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328375-r34-custom-gauge-install/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

looks good bud :P

i used 52mm gauges in mine instead, they sit nicely behind the plastic screen for a more factory look unlike 60mm gauges which pop out. hah ive also painted mine matt black!

also, you will notice that even if you mount em flat they will still face the driver more as the cluster/holder itself is on an angle :blink:

Edited by R-SPEC

that looks shocking ..sorry.

52mm ones fit perfectly inside the factory holder ..after lots of tinkering and trying to come up with a way to hold them in place I finally figured out that blu tack was the easiest solution (no movememnt and they're held solidly in place without any brackets)

post-49910-1278867327_thumb.jpgpost-49910-1278867337_thumb.jpg

that looks shocking ..sorry.

52mm ones fit perfectly inside the factory holder ..after lots of tinkering and trying to come up with a way to hold them in place I finally figured out that blu tack was the easiest solution (no movememnt and they're held solidly in place without any brackets)

post-49910-1278867327_thumb.jpgpost-49910-1278867337_thumb.jpg

at least he doesnt have a 2tone dash wtf is going on there bro

okbanana i have the exact same guages but the white face, very nice bro.

yeah ok shocking was a bit harsh .. just looks a bit out of place as it loses the stock look. I'd prefer those cup mounts on a flat dash or pillar mount pods rather than 3 big clock-like gauges sticking out like that, but that's me. Just being pedantic .. I'm sure functionality wise it's way better / easier to read those gauges.

As for the 2 tone .. yeah it's not everyones cup a tea :blink: Had to do it though because it was all scratched up after numerous audio installs etc. Here's a better shot though post-49910-1278909653_thumb.jpg

yeah ok shocking was a bit harsh .. just looks a bit out of place as it loses the stock look. I'd prefer those cup mounts on a flat dash or pillar mount pods rather than 3 big clock-like gauges sticking out like that, but that's me. Just being pedantic .. I'm sure functionality wise it's way better / easier to read those gauges.

As for the 2 tone .. yeah it's not everyones cup a tea :blink: Had to do it though because it was all scratched up after numerous audio installs etc. Here's a better shot though post-49910-1278909653_thumb.jpg

When you see the 2 tone like that, it actually looks pretty good, but I reckon if your gear surround was black/dark grey instead of silver, it will look even better :P

I also like the way your gauges look.

I actually love that interior look, I have a similar theme with white leather gearstick/handbrake boots, and the surround on my dash gauges is painted white. Did you retrim the door inserts yourself? How hard was it to do, where did you get the material from? Have wanted to do that ever since I got my car (previous owner was a smoker, interior is badly stained :blink: ) Will go for a slightly more custom approach, but much of a muchness with what you have done.

had it done by a trimmer (front seats and inserts front and back) Did the backseats myself to save a bit of dough.. It's those leatherette (read vinyl) covers they had group buys for on SAU and they're always on ebay as well.

that looks shocking ..sorry.

Very constructive comments...I did the 52mm gauges, but finding decent gauges that come in 52mm for a good price...doubtful. I dont like cheap crappy gauges, each to their own, my car is all about function, and considering the setup I have in my R34, I think it's warranted. :rofl2:

sorry mate didn't mean to offend .. just judging it based on aestethic appeal. I used cheap gauges ($150 for the 3) and just wanted something that looked more modern that the crappy original ones. You have obviously gone in the other direction completely - ie. quality and usability over plain old 'looks'.

Mine doesn't light up? There is nowhere for it to light up either, so definitely doesn't have a light.

Man this is going off topic fast lol

You have to pull the whole switch apart to get at the bulb to replace it. Mine didn't work when I bought the car either. Trust me - it's supposed to light up. Here are some pictures of it that I've just taken:

dsc00076.jpg

dsc00079.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
  • Create New...