Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok. i'm doing a conversion on my R32 GTS4 and we have everything done.. loom and computer installed, hole cut. everything is done except the gearbox bolted up.... we got it up and the the gearbox sits about an inch away from the bell housing and doesn't go and further. my friend used a alignment kit for the clutch but he couldn't see properly. so do you think it might be that or is there some special way of getting it back in. the auto came out easily after stuffing around with that top bolt on the gearbox.. 2 hrs later.

yesterday there was a huge storm and we were still working on it.. hehehe :D we got really wet. but he kept working at it but still couldn't get it.

and thoughts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32856-need-help-with-installing-gearbox/
Share on other sites

my mate did a conversion from a auto non turbo r32 to a turbo manual just a week or 2 ago, and yeah from wot i remember he had a similar problem, i think he needed a custom mount thing (the standard manual gearbox mount wouldn't fit to the chassis of the previous auto area) cos the bell housing was a different shape of that for the auto.

i'm probally wrong in this, but from wot i'm aware, might b ur problem.........

nah. all of the mounts are fine and everything i got came off a 93 gts4 manual same car and same year as mine. the gts4 are the same layout even if they are auto or manual. i don't need to change the tail shaft, even though i have it there.

If you havn't already you need to remove the cup pressed into the crank bearing hole, then leave it out (use a slide hammer or delicately tap it out with hammer and cold chisel on the edge, but only as last resort) then before ya fit the spigget bearing get some fine grade 800-1000 sand paper on a pencila nd softly smooth out the inside to ensure it slides easier onto the imput shaft.

Now all nissan imports have very tight space around the bell housing, as i found when doing the conversion on my 97' 180sx. there is two ways around this. (Before either make sure your remove the front pipe off the turbo dump to the cat, it allows easier work with gearboxes)

* Turn the box sideways to actually get the gearbox in, then turn it back to upright to bolt in. Makre sure you don't EVER use the bolts to pull the gearbox in it will crack the bell housing, screw teh crank bearing or bend the imput shaft... and in drivetrain parts, we are talking a thou's make a HUGE difference on balanced parts!

* Another way is to wack it on a hoist if possible, then loosen the engine crossmember bolts about 2/3's off on both sides then get a flat piece of timber long enuff to reach from a car jack to the bottom of the sump of the engine, put a thick piece of wood/metal under the sump across its entire surface area to prevent any crushing, then slowly jack the engine up a little. This tilts the engine in a better angle to get the box in without the bell housing hitting.

Yepp, that last inch sucks!!

In addition to what has been said before, make sure the box has an even gap all the way around it (between it and the motor).

If possible, put it in gear, get someone to push the back of the box towards the motor, and another person to 'jiggle' the rear wheels to turn the shafts in the box, this might help it line up the teeth etc...

Oh, a really cool trick to get the spiggot bearing out that works 100% with zero fuss....... Get a tube of dry lube, it's sort of like softish wax but is actual lube.. Fill the hole in the pressure plate (where the siggot bearing is) with dry lube, get as much in there as you can. The get a (I think) 5/16th bolt, if 5/16th's isn't the right size, then get a bolt that JUST fit's into the siggot bearing.

With the siggot bearing full of dry lube, put the bolt in the hole and hit the bolt in with a hammer. Hydraulics will do the rest :devil: The dry lube will force the siggot bearing out with about 3-4 taps of the hammer :D

I was amazed at how easy it was to do.

J

When we did the clutch on my 33, we used an old shaft from the wreckers to line the splines up on the clutch to the hole it sits in.... other wise you could be up sh*t street trying to get it to line up. And r33's have a heavy arsed box - not sure if they are the same as r32's, but you need 2 big blokes :devil:

Sumo

My experience has been:

1. The gearbox input shaft has to be perfectly square-on to the spigot bush.

2. The splines on the input shaft need to be aligned with the splines in the clutch plate.

I once spent about 2 hours under a car (it was up on ramps), with 2 jacks trying to get the gearbox square-on. About to give up, but gave it 1 more try - and home it went.

sweet as. i'm going to get a 180b shaft today.. hehehe were dodgy.. but it works so its ok.

i want to get the car out to willowbank for a street meet that is on wednesday night. so i want to get it done as soon as possible.. thanks alot guys. i'll post up how it goes tomorrow.

I spent 3 hours trying to put a gearbox back onto my R31. I got it off ok, but just couldnt get it that last little bit to get it back on. In the end i unbolted the exhaust brackets under the car and loosened the motor mount things and it went on easily. The motor just needed to be tilted that little bit more.

But it might be different with R32/conversions.

its all good now. we got the gearbox in and bolted up in about 1 hr. if you are stuck trying to line up a clutch by a 180b or 200b gearbox from the wreakers for $50 then hit the sh1t out of it for the input shaft and it takes you about 10 secs to line it up... so easy.

with that bearing we got another one to compare but it was the same so we just drilled out the one that was in there perfectly and the gearbox fits in nicely. now all we need to do this afternoon is the clutch cylinders and put the radiator but in and the bonnet on and its RACE TIME!!!

anyone going out to the street meet at willowbank tonight?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...