Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as the title says, i have my hicus still in and hooked up to stock etc, but the hicus light on my dash turns on after 5 mins of driving and dosent turn off unless the car turns off, what would be causing this? and how do i fix it? does the light mean my hicus is buggered?

cheers

What was the last thing you did to the car before the light started coming on?

It means it is getting an error of some sort and going into its failsafe mode. You need to work out what is causing the error.

I once had it happen when I shorted the speed signal wire, kept happening. Simply reset the factory ECU (disconnected the battery over night) and hey presto was fine again.

Have you taken your steering wheel off lately? if it's not quite on straight, after a few minutes of driving HICAS will think you're driving in a really big circle and throw up an error..

Does your speedo still work?

What was the last thing you did to the car before the light started coming on?

It means it is getting an error of some sort and going into its failsafe mode. You need to work out what is causing the error.

I once had it happen when I shorted the speed signal wire, kept happening. Simply reset the factory ECU (disconnected the battery over night) and hey presto was fine again.

its been doing it since i got it, ill try disconnecting the battery, both terminals?

Have you taken your steering wheel off lately? if it's not quite on straight, after a few minutes of driving HICAS will think you're driving in a really big circle and throw up an error..

Does your speedo still work?

i havnt, but ive had the car for about 3 weeks so i dont know what the last ownder did,but how would it know that the steering wheel is off center? its only alen screws...

speedo is fine!

the way it knows is there's a hicas related clock spring type wheel behind the steering wheel that turns with your steering wheel. so it keeps track of the angle. 'steering angle sensor'

but i dont know why ppl keep saying check if your steering wheel is off by a tiny bit. coz the splines dont allow you to be off by a tiny bit. it's very noticeable if you're off if only by one tooth.

i suggest taking your boss kit off and check that it has the appropriate holes in the back for the steering angle sensor to lock into. also, check that the sensor is still there.

Edited by Munkyb0y

There is a steering angle sensor behind the boss, HICAS uses steering angle and speed input to decide what it's doing. Even one tooth out will freak the system out.. I'm talking teeth of the splined shaft that the boss goes on to, not the 6 bolts that hold the steering wheel to the boss.

The sensor is a big white looking disc thing with two posts standing proud of it... really hard to miss.. as soon as you take the boss off there it is.

But +1 for binning HICAS. You don't have as much of a weight saving in the R33's but I hate HICAS and removing it gave me more confidence in the abilities of the car as opposed to not being entirely sure what the back end was going to do..

Fortunately, my Stagea came from the factory without it :)

The sensor is a big white looking disc thing with two posts standing proud of it... really hard to miss.. as soon as you take the boss off there it is.

But +1 for binning HICAS. You don't have as much of a weight saving in the R33's but I hate HICAS and removing it gave me more confidence in the abilities of the car as opposed to not being entirely sure what the back end was going to do..

Fortunately, my Stagea came from the factory without it :)

ok an how is the disc supposed to sit? or am i just making sure its in there?

also, while where on the topic, how hard is it to bin the hicus? is it as simple as unbolting and unpluggin the wires and putting in the bar? or will i need to screw around with the wireing etc, and will i need a wheel alignment? how hard is it? whats involved?

Mine did this. Would always come on just outside of Sydney on the way back to Canberra, but never any other time....inclusive of the way TO Sydney :S

I personally just pissed it off with a lock bar when I got my suspension etc done, but that's obviously not fixing the problem (unless of course you agree that HICAS itself is the problem in the first place)

His is an R33.. I know the 32 will light up the HICAS light if the fluid level is low but doubt the R33 does the same..

yeh i thought it still did as it simply doubled as a hicas/steering fluid warning. im probably wrong, i dont like to meddle in r33 things usually lol

do r33's have a separate warning light for the steering fluid sensor?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...