Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if anyone has any or knows of any good sites that have comparison sheets for power v's response for different turbos? I know everyone asks about what turbo to get but there's no actual comparison charts on the search.

Has anyone got any recommendations for a turbo to get me up to around 250rwkw? I'm still looking for it to be streetable. I'm asking a bit but any info would help.

My motor (RB25DET) is going in for a full rebuild with forgies, head flowed and metal gasket, etc. I've already got all the basics done, exhaust, intake, 550cc injectors, AVCR, bosch fuel pump and will be purchasing a PFC to run it all.

Do i need anything else before i can reach this power figure?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32874-comparison-sheet-for-turbos/
Share on other sites

gt3040

easily get you there. Im putting one on this week/next.

HKS GT3040 will get you anywhere from 330rwkw to 370rwkw depending on exhaust housing size...

It's too big for his needs (250rwkw) and will only result in unnecessary lag...

Look for something in the range of a 400-450hp turbo... That will get you to 250rwkw with a little bit of headroom :D

Thanks Merli. That's the kind of chart i was looking for!

I might look at something like the GT2835.

Anyone had any experience with a GT2835 compared to a GT2530?

Wondering how early each one comes onto boost or if they are direct bolt ons to the standard RB25DET exhaust manifold?

Hi Steg33, it has been our expereince that you can get to 250 rwkw on the standard RB25DET injectors. I'd spend the money on a set of 256/260 Tomei Poncams instead. That will give you a better spread of power than the standard cams.

A ball bearing hi flow of your standard turbo will also get to 250rwkw as well. This saves a lot of hassle and expense with water, oil supply, intercooler and inlet air pipework. All the standard stuff bolts straight back up.

A standard GTR fuel pump would be cheaper than a Bosch and will handle 250 rwkw as well.

I'd save money and buy the Boost Control Kit with the Power FC rather than have a AVCR. They both use the same good quality solenoid, so boost control is equal.

For 250 rwkw you won't need to lower the compression ratio, so a thick head gasket is unneccesary. In fact you don't need to open the motor up at all for 250 rwkw. We don't even think about that until well over 300 rwkw is the target.

Hope that helps.

I've already got all the basics done, exhaust, intake, 550cc injectors, AVCR, bosch fuel pump and will be purchasing a PFC to run it all.

Sydneykid, the mods have already been done (all Japanese before importing). The only things still to come are the engine rebuild, PFC and turbo upgrade/highflow.

Unfortunately the motor is getting rebuilt only because i've got a heap of smoke bellowing out the back and low compression in cylinder 5. I would have avoided the rebuild if the oil burning problem didn't come up (was still drivable until yesterday when it started to really spit smoke). The forgies, etc, are just getting done while the motor's out, for a piece of mind and it still gives me the option for more power later.

Also want to know if my current FMIC (Apexi Hybrid) is going to be efficient or big enough if i'm getting 250rwkw?

Has anyone got any recommendations for a turbo to get me up to around 250rwkw? I'm still looking for it to be streetable. I'm asking a bit but any info would help.
Interesting post, I asked basically the same questions that you have in an email to www.horsepowerinabox.com only 3 days ago and this is the response I got (I cut all the dribble):

-

My email:

Im looking at upgrading the standard turbo on my R33 GTS-t RB25DET in the next 4-6mths and I have no idea what turbo I should be looking for.

My current mods are:

RB25DET - 85,000km

Standard Airbox with K&N Panel Filter

FMIC (100mm thick made by Micks Metalcrafts in Sydney)

Dual-stage boost controller (7 / 12 psi)

3" Nismo Cat-back exhaust

3" Custom Cat

3" Custom front/dump pipe

Bosch 040 fuel pump (intank)

Standard ECU

Standard Injectors

Mods i'll be doing before turbo upgrade:

Ex Cam Gear

Power FC + H/C

Injectors

I have had my car on several dyno's over the last 12mths all being Dyno Dynamic Dyno's run in shootout mode on anything from 25c - 35c weather. My results have been mixed (as expected from different dyno's) with; 180rwkw, 188rwkw, 203rwkw.

I really like the minimal lag that the standard RB25 turbo has and im wanting to keep lag at bare minimum as possible. I'm after a turbo that is going to give me "up to" 250rwkw (I don't want to touch internals for quite some time yet).

Their response:

The Gt35 kit I do is the latest thing I am into for RB25 and I have tried a heap of different combo's.

Two ways of doing it:-

1. GT35 600hp turbo with .63 external wastegate exhaust housing.

45mm Turbosmart wastegate

Modified Stock Nissan manifold to take wastegate.

Oil feed line and water fittings

Rear turbo flange supplied and oil drain flange

This requires the downpipe and wastegate pipe to be fabricated and also an air intake 4" to be made up.

2. GT35 600hp turbo with .63 integral wastegate exhaust housing modified to have GT35 core fit to it.

Smaller T4 .60 compressor cover fitted to allow manifold clearance.

Oil feed, water fittings and flanges as needed

This requires a 2.5" inlet adapter to turbo made and the downpipe off the turbo and oil drain made.

I left the prices off the reply above just incase they change over time as people read this thread (now or in the future). To me it sounds like alot of work and mucking around along with a huge expense just to get 250rwkw (if SydneyKid says it can be done with standard injectors and a bolt-on Hiflowed stock turbo).

Sounds good Benm.

I guess it would be easier for people to comment if i give all my mods like you did and anyone can let me know what they think.

CURRENT ENGINE PARTS:

AVC-R

SII R33 turbo

HKS pod intake

Split dump pipe

Blitz 3" cat back

Denso 550cc injectors

FMIC Apexi Hybrid

Bosch fuel pump (not sure what size but whines it's head off constantly)

Re burnt ECU

Blown Piston!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

MODS IN PROCESS:

3" front pipe and highflow cat

Full rebuild

Forged pistons

Metal head gasget

Port, polished head

Angle cut valves

Machined block

Shot peened rods

Power FC (get rid of stock AFM)

Possibly an exhaust cam pulley

That's my set up at the moment. Now i just need a turbo that will give me some kick and is still streetable and reliable. 250rwkw would be ideal but open to comments for more power possibly.

Should i run a highflow combination or GT2530,GT2835 etc?

Hi Steg33, I stick by my original post, for 250 rwkw I would;

* Keep the compression at 9 to1

* Get the standard turbo ball bearing hi flowed

* Stick a set of Tomei 256/260 Poncams in (their timing is spot on so no need for adj exhaust pulley).

* Upgrade to Z32 AFM

* Get the block O'ringed

* You didn't mention it, so I will, get all the up & down and round & round bits balanced. This includes the flywheel and pressure plate.

* If you don't already have it, a clutch upgrade is also essential, and I would go for a light flywheel at the same time.

* Split dump with at least 400 mm of separate pipework

That will make a great all round (road, drag, circuit) RB25.

Hope that helps some more

Their response:

 

The Gt35 kit I do is the latest thing I am into  for RB25 and I have tried a heap of different combo's.

 

 Two ways of doing it:-

 

 1. GT35 600hp turbo with .63 external wastegate  exhaust housing.  

   

 2. GT35 600hp turbo with .63 integral wastegate  exhaust housing modified to have GT35 core fit to it.

250rwkw = 355rwhp

That's about 425hp @ engine...

Why are they recommending a 600hp turbo to make 450hp??? :confused:

I agree with SydneyKid... A highflow stock turbo would do the job (or close enough to it), there's no need to muck around with engine internals or injectors... Grab yourself a fuel pressure regulator and just bump up rail pressure it you need a bit more fuel.

Steg33,

if you are after a new turbo that will give u your 250rwkw with nice response and don't mind fabricating a new dump, etc, i will have to recommend that you go for the 475hp Garrett GT30 with the A/R .82 exhaust housing. Specs are as per below;

GT30 (SB8005A - 700177-0011);

Compressor;

* A/R 0.70 housing

* 52 Trim T04S wheel (2.17"/3.00")

Turbine;

* A/R 0.82 housing

* 90 Trim (2.11"/2.22")

More details and specs to Garrett turbos can be found at the link below.

http://www.turbofast.com.au/GTseries.html

turbochart.jpg

Merli,

I would be interested to know where youre getting these figures from ?

The reason being that the table shows GTSS's rated at lower output than 2510's whereas HKS on their japan site rate GTSS's as having 320ps which is the same as 2530's (on the Jap site) ??

The ozzie (ozzie ozzie) site however rates GTSS's at 280ps, someones wrong ?

any thoughts

Jeremy

250rwkw = 355rwhp

That's about 425hp @ engine...

Why are they recommending a 600hp turbo to make 450hp??? :confused:

Well thats why I thought that it was alittle over kill what he recommended (but would probably be better off in the long run) just at a much higher price to begin with.
Merli,

I would be interested to know where youre getting these figures from ?

The reason being that the table shows GTSS's rated at lower output than 2510's whereas HKS on their japan site rate GTSS's as having 320ps which is the same as 2530's (on the Jap site) ??

The ozzie (ozzie ozzie) site however rates GTSS's at 280ps, someones wrong ?

any thoughts  

Jeremy

I believe they were printed in OPTION Magazine based from manufacturer ratings.

It seems that HKS have revised their power rating for the GT-SS, because in my 2003 HKS Goodmaster, they are also rated at 280ps. I haven't seen the 2004 Goodsmaster yet though.

Well thats why I thought that it was alittle over kill what he recommended (but would probably be better off in the long run) just at a much higher price to begin with.

Why would it be better off in the long run?

If your goals are 250rwkw, how could it POSSIBLY be better? All you are doing is introducing unnecessary lag and spool up time, by using a turbo that's way too big. Going by that theory that "bigger is better in the long run", why not go for a T51R SPL? Surely if a GT35 will be better in the long run, a T51R SPL will be even better in the long run!!!

If you seriously think it would be better in the long run, perhaps your goals are really 350rwkw and not 250rwkw.

Set your goal correctly, and buy the turbo that will make that power and not much more. 150-200hp headroom is OVERKILL and quite honestly silly.

Sydneykid, sounds like a couple of good ideas there. Do the Tomoei poncams make the car any rougher to drive normally because i'll still be doing a fair few k's in the car and don't want it to be too bad if i get into traffic? How much will it actually bulk up my power curve?

There's only about $600 between going for a highflow or GT2540®/GT2835® so i'd feel a bit more confident with a new one of the second choices. Like everyone else, i'd like the boost not to come on too late, but make the power safely and easily.

I'm thinking RS500's idea of the GT30 might be a bit big, and with one of the two samller ones i shouldn't have to change my dump pipe (split).

Thanks again so far guys. It's been a lot of help

STeg33,

the GT30 option which i mentioned above is actually the smallest in the GT30 range, and if you do your research, you'll find out that it has the same turbine wheel as the HKS GT2835 and the same compressor wheel as the 450ps HKS GT3037S.

i know of an R33 that had one of these, and it was very nice to drive with heaps of response, mid-band torque and good power.

STeg33,

the GT30 option which i mentioned above is actually the smallest in the GT30 range, and if you do your research, you'll find out that it has the same turbine wheel as the HKS GT2835 and the same compressor wheel as the 450ps HKS GT3037S.

i know of an R33 that had one of these, and it was very nice to drive with heaps of response, mid-band torque and good power.

Smallest in range, biggest in range or whatever... Any GT30 will make WAY more than 250rwkw and is hence too big for his needs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...