Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When using Knock monitoring systems you need to input a frequency to monitor use this guide as a starting point. I often get called and asked what starting point to use as it is not something that is easy to find in any literature, i have put together a list of my starting points for a few different engines.

If the engine is not listed just ask and i will add it to the list (only takes a few minutes to work it out).

RB20 7.3khz

RB25 6.7khz

RB26 6.7khz

RB26 (forged) 6.6khz

RB28 6.6khz

RB30 6.7khz

RB30 (forged) 6.6khz

VG30 6.6khz

VR38 6.0khz

VR38 (4l) 6.0khz

VQ20 7.5khz

VQ30 6.2khz

VQ35 6.0khz

SR20 6.7khz

SR20 (2.2l) 6.6khz

SR20 (2.35l) 6.3khz

CA18 6.9khz

2JZ 6.7khz

2JZ (forged) 6.6khz

2JZ (3.4l) 6.6khz

1JZ 6.7khz

B16A 7.1khz

LS1 5.8khz

LS2 5.7khz

XR6T 6.2khz

XR8 (modular) 6.4khz

RB20 Forged, and RB20DE+t Forged. How do you work it out? just get it to knock at a low load with the kmon?

Slight off topic question, can you run the kmon from aux power? or will it only work from the laptop?

RB20 Forged, and RB20DE+t Forged. How do you work it out? just get it to knock at a low load with the kmon?

Slight off topic question, can you run the kmon from aux power? or will it only work from the laptop?

Its more to do with bore size, if you look @ the specs you will notice most jap 6 inline cyls are close as they all run around the 86-87mm bore.

There is much more to it than just bore size as many things can skew the optimal frequency but this guide will get you close enough.

I'm pretty sure yo could use a usb charger to run it.... i will ask ray @ gizzmo for you.

what about the frequency bandwidth? care to explain a bit about this option? what is it for what does it do?

The first post above is made to centre the frequency @ an approximate target. The bandwidth control is then used to determines how far above and below the centre frequency the device will detect, i.e. the width or spread of frequencies.

A narrow bandwidth adjustment is very specific, useful for accurately accentuating a specific knock frequency (if you know it). Narrow bandwidth adjustments tend to have less noise.

A broader bandwidth allows more frequencies to be heard, useful for a new set-up where the actual frequency is not known or for initial testing and finding the correct centre frequency. Broader adjustments tend to have more "noise".

There is no correct Bandwidth per see but the narrower the bandwidth the less feedback or noise will be recorded or heard. Nice for loose or noisy solid cammed type engines that naturally emit lots of mechanical noise.

Below is a diagram:

Yellow vertical line is the centre frequency (in this case 6khz)

Red horizontal line is narrow bandwidth

Green horizontal line is broad bandwidth

6khzbandwith.jpg

  • 2 years later...
  • 1 month later...

In addition to the above, has anyone got the kmon to log using fc datalogit? The manual didnt include the designation of the three wires ???

post on the facebook gizzmo page the owner ray will reply quite quickly, i cant remember the wiring. its just a 0-5v output.
  • 3 years later...
1 hour ago, MagicMikeZ32 said:

Surprised you don't have the formula saved on your laptop? Of course understanding this just puts you in the ballpark....

 

=900000/(3.14*0.5*bore diam)

among 1000s of others like crank degrees to ms etc... but its a 2sec reference here instead of trolling through pages of spreadsheets :P

On 07/12/2016 at 3:25 PM, 89CAL said:

HP Officejet Pro? Sounds like an awful ECU

haha but an awesome wifi printer for quick screen grabs for customers

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
×
×
  • Create New...