Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mythbusters ahoy!

where

HR32 - A = 0.8 and B = 0.9 kgcm2 which is 0.85kgcm2 (average) which is 12.08 psi

BNR32 A = 0.7 and B = 0.8kgmc2 which is 0.75kgcm2 (average) which is 10.66 psi

ECR33 manual is 385mmhg which is 7.4446 psi

ECR33 auto is 270mmhg which is 5.220 psi

BCNR33 A = 0.79kgcm2 and B = 0.85kgc2m which is 0.82kgcm2 (average) which is 11.6 psi

be sure to note, that ECR33 has dual stage boost, that is the std solenoid will bleed an additional 2psi above 4500rpm

so if the std actuator according to the nissan spec manual is 5psi for AUTO R33 GTST, then at 4500rpm+ to redline, you get 7psi minimum boost

so if the std actuator according to the nissan spec manual is 5psi for MANUAL R33 GTST, then at 4500rpm+ to redline, you get 9psi minimum boost

if someone can find ER34/BNR34 please let

You will find, that when they're on a running car with exhaust gas flowing, they will open at a lower pressure. Why? The exhaust gas is also exerting force onto the diaphragm through the actual gate... :(

The R33 connected direct to the actuator should not run over 5PSi.

When the solenoid activates it bleeds off some air, meaning the pressure the actuator is seeing, is lower then what is really there.

IE, if it's really at 7PSi, the actuator is only seeing 5PSi still... :( If you give it full pressure, it'll open further, and reduce pressure until it sits back at 5PSi... :(

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What rpm is it making 5psi at? (any gear, doesn't really matter in this instance)

almost exactly 4500, basically it hits 5psi pretty quick and sticks to it untill 4500, then starts to creep to 7psi slowly, and it feels really rough and flat, (what i think its r&r) im not 100% if it gets to 7psi and stays there as i always back off as it starts to get to 7psi as it feels too rough to drive

i made this pic with my leet photoshop skills, hopefuly it shows whats happening a bit clearer

from my memory when my GTST was stock

2nd gear below 4500rpm was 5psi as it should be

and when you went past 4500rpm it would run to 7psi and remain static at 7psi

there was no flat spot, not wobbly issue etc and it ran great

from my memory when my GTST was stock

2nd gear below 4500rpm was 5psi as it should be

and when you went past 4500rpm it would run to 7psi and remain static at 7psi

there was no flat spot, not wobbly issue etc and it ran great

yep that sounds correct while using the boost solonoid, but mine isnt hooked up

You didn't really answer my question.. when does it first get to 5psi?? stock turbo should be seeing it about 2000rpm ish..

yea i think its around 2.5k rpm, it boosts up to 5psi normal

Ok so it's not a highflow so it really can't be R&R.

Sounds more like spark breaking down, what plugs? at what gap? when were they last changed? tried different coils? different coil harness?

Ok so it's not a highflow so it really can't be R&R.

Sounds more like spark breaking down, what plugs? at what gap? when were they last changed? tried different coils? different coil harness?

hmm, didnt think of that, the plugs are iridium's, not sure what gap, i only had a quick look to check the state of them, my coils are strange now than u mention it, they have this orange silicon on the back of them, not neatly done (well, not neat enough to come from factory) so someone has played with them, what could be the story here?

hmm, didnt think of that, the plugs are iridium's, not sure what gap, i only had a quick look to check the state of them, my coils are strange now than u mention it, they have this orange silicon on the back of them, not neatly done (well, not neat enough to come from factory) so someone has played with them, what could be the story here?

This is often a 'fix' for stopping old coils that are damaged/split from arcing out against the head. (Because the silicon acts an insulator). Another method people use is to tape them up.

See: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...em-t119403.html

Anyways - it's a good indicator that your coil packs have had issues in the past and someone has bandaided it. Perhaps follow the above thread, tape up your coil packs and if the issue goes away - there's your culprit. Either way, it's probably a good sign for you to replace them with splitfires or yellowjackets.

I'll put $10 on the fact that the coilpacks are fubar'd.

Also, copper plugs are just fine and a lot cheaper than iridiums. BCP6ES gapped at 0.8mm, with some new coils and you'll be laughing :(

ok guys, will inspect the coilpacks to see what the g.o. is, do i have to get plugs gapped at .8? isnt stock 1.1? any benafits of .8 apart from creating a weaker spark? (which isnt a benafit)

Gapping to 0.8mm makes it harder for the charged air to blow the spark out at higher boost levels. If you have a really good ignition system you can leave them at 1.1

ahhh ok cool, cheers

ok guys, will inspect the coilpacks to see what the g.o. is, do i have to get plugs gapped at .8? isnt stock 1.1? any benafits of .8 apart from creating a weaker spark? (which isnt a benafit)

When you replace coils, on stock boost run a 1.1mm gap.

ok guys, will inspect the coilpacks to see what the g.o. is, do i have to get plugs gapped at .8? isnt stock 1.1? any benafits of .8 apart from creating a weaker spark? (which isnt a benafit)

the options are 1.1mm and 0.8mm. if you get bkr6es they are 0.8mm, and bkr6es-11 are the same plug gapped to 1.1mm.

yeah the spark crosses the gap easier when it's smaller, so the high turbulence in the cylinder can't "blow" it out. it's the usual temporary fix for misfire

i have a similar problem except my actuator is untouched except for the high boost mod which is on a switch.

dont mean the thread jack it just sounds pretty much the same as my issue.

car has been running fine for 1.5 years since i owned it but since saturday it only boosts to 5-6 psi instead of 8-9. i havent changed or touched anything....

it otherwise drives normal :S

pod filter, split dump, cat back exhaust, safc neo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...