Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

have an update guys

after fitting my controller i set the boost to 8 psi ish, and now when giving it juice it starts to POP after around 4 or 5k rpm, it feels like it his redline and dosent want to gain anymore rpm and goes pop pop pop pop pop pop untill i back off, the boost dosent creep past 10 psi when this happens so it must be something with the engine, any ideas?

that sounds like R&R now

are you sure you are setting it to 8psi and not reading 0.8kgcm2 on the stock guage?

0.8kgcm2 or 0.8 bar is very different to 8psi

its definatly psi, the guage says psi

would r&r cause it to pop like this though? i thought it would just run slower and richer, this was like crazy popping like the rev limiter but replace the revs with pops, and wouldnt rev more

nah R&R basically just feels flat and empty

ie all the power drops off but the car keeps going

popping / farting flat out is either

detonation

misfire

detonation is from too much boost, poor spark, poor spark gap, poor fuel, poor timing, poor compression, too high intake temp

misfire is from

poor spark, poor coils, damaged coils, damaged or mangled spark wiring / loom, other electricial issues

nah R&R basically just feels flat and empty

ie all the power drops off but the car keeps going

popping / farting flat out is either

detonation

misfire

detonation is from too much boost, poor spark, poor spark gap, poor fuel, poor timing, poor compression, too high intake temp

misfire is from

poor spark, poor coils, damaged coils, damaged or mangled spark wiring / loom, other electricial issues

do you think the above mentioned issues with a cracked coil or to large a gap for plugs would cause this?

do you think the above mentioned issues with a cracked coil or to large a gap for plugs would cause this?

yep, absolutely, it's a really common problem with skylines. the coilpacks often need replacing after 100k km. the popping is prob the misfire, i have the same problem.

try the above methods and see how it goes: reduce gap, tape coilpacks, silicon coilpacks, replace coilpacks (or just skip to that)

yep, absolutely, it's a really common problem with skylines. the coilpacks often need replacing after 100k km. the popping is prob the misfire, i have the same problem.

try the above methods and see how it goes: reduce gap, tape coilpacks, silicon coilpacks, replace coilpacks (or just skip to that)

cheers mate, will try them all this weekend and report back, hoping it fixes the issue! i dont mind spending some cash on coilpacks if they need replacing though, if thats whats causing it

cheers

are you running stock ecu?

if you have full exhaust/ intake then even if you set the boost to 8 it's gonna creep past that no matter what. r33 ecu's are very finicky. so hell maybe its just creeping to 9psi.

that could still cause it to go into r&R.

are you running stock ecu?

if you have full exhaust/ intake then even if you set the boost to 8 it's gonna creep past that no matter what. r33 ecu's are very finicky. so hell maybe its just creeping to 9psi.

that could still cause it to go into r&R.

oh, i didnt know that it will creep no matter what with the mods...

i have

3 inch bellmouth, high flow cat, 3.5 inch cat back

normal airbox with k&n filter

fmic

stock ecu (i think, i might have to make sure)

i always thought it was something wrong because, theres a limiter, weather it be the actuator, or the boost controller, that it limits the pressure by releasing the flap, so i just dont understand how it can over pressurize

Just to add my experience to this, maybe it will help someone or someone can help me.

I have an R33 manual.

- 3inch belmouth dump pipe, xforce cat (dont know how old it is?), 3inch stainless sytem

- Pod filter

- R34 SMIC (cleaned it out as well as the piping.

My car has developed a bit of a flat spot on really cold nights (worse with fog) so its probably getting to R&R point.

Interestingly my boost gauge (psi) only reads 7max! according to everyone i should be getting more than that?

thoughts?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...