R33 Race Alignment Settings.

[tarmac]

Currently running 0.5degrees toe out on front, 8/6kg springs, rose jointed caster arms, lock subframe, no hicas, adjustable whiteline sway bars, ISC coil overs 2.5 degrees rear camber, 2.5degrees front camber

Am thinking to add some rear traction arms, camber arms front and rear, and possibly nolethane bush the lower control arms.

Is there anything I can do for the steering rack mounts, are there bushes or what ever I can buy to get it abit firmer as on lower speed tracks with heavy cornering the steering can become quite heavy.

Is there anything I can do to the subframe to beef it up? The car is tight, but its not as tight as i'd like it to be, cornering at 200k's there is quite abit of play.. ( has a full rollcage)

Is anyone willing to point me in the right direction in terms of alignments etc, or any advice to tighten it up. Currently doing 1.08s around Pukekohe NZ.

[tarmac]

And in terms of adjusting bump steer, I know of nobody who has any idea about how to adjust it, so i think leaving the traction arms at standard length maybe best ? It is purely a race car so gets used about 1 hour a week

[Mr. Untouchable]

I'm certainly no expert, but il chip in my 2c.

if its a track based car, i'm tipping your on semi's?

anyhow, 2.5 -ve degrees up front maybe isnt enough, I run atleast 3, mostly 3.5 and mine see's the road once a fortnight atleast. (not many kays tho)

on the rear, 2.5 -ve sounds to be too much, i only run 1.5 -ve on the rear.

you dont mention ride hights, but the "recomended" ride hight for gtst's is 350mm front, 340mm rear, thats from guard/top of wheel arch to centre of the hub.

nolethane bushes are a good idea for the rear LCA's.

adjustable front and rear UCA's is a good idea (rear traction rods also), and front LCA's are handy also.

what type of diff? stock? shimmed? or 1.5/2 way?

as for steering maybe 'new' tie rods & rose jointed tie rod ends?

and for track work, depending how serious you are, most people would recomend ditching the ISC coilovers. I'm in the process of ditching my teins for bilstein shocks (with extra hight adjustment grooves) and king springs (6.5ish Kg & 4.5ish Kg).

0.5 toe out up front sounds okay, what you running on the rear?

hope this helps, Jack

[tarmac]

Cheers for the reply.

Rear has neutral toe , any suggestions. Am running full 17inch slicks. Still running standard diff, its rubbish, am trying to find a 2way, past experienes with shimming diffs is they dont last long enough. Height wise i will check, however it looks similar to your car in your photos, e.g. not very low. Will have a play with camber.

I will look into nolathane bushes for rear RCA's, there doesnt seem to be a part number for front however, is there no bush in the front arm or? What are your toe settings.. Thanks

[Mr. Untouchable]

Cheers for the reply.

Rear has neutral toe , any suggestions. Am running full 17inch slicks. Still running standard diff, its rubbish, am trying to find a 2way, past experienes with shimming diffs is they dont last long enough. Height wise i will check, however it looks similar to your car in your photos, e.g. not very low. Will have a play with camber.

I will look into nolathane bushes for rear RCA's, there doesnt seem to be a part number for front however, is there no bush in the front arm or? What are your toe settings.. Thanks

dont be shy with the diff mate. a open wheeling factory spec diff is totally bloody shithouse. even if it doesnt last forever, its still better than open wheeling and lasting forever lol. as for toe, I'm running 0 deg. in/out on the front with 3mm of total rear toe in on the rear.

[tarmac]

I could always lock it up, not so keen on it flying to pieces at 240k's tho..

Maybe ill add some rear toe on next alignment and see how it feels.

[MrStabby]

AFAIK you'd only want to add rear toe in if you needed to deal with rear end instability - otherwise you'd leave it alone. Toe in = reduced tendency to change direction. Dont forget to check out the handling articles sticky above.

[BI6TIM]

Regarding bump steer, the relationship between lower control arm and rack end/tie rod, angle wise, is the main factor there. If you can get them to 'follow the same arc" through suspension travel you should eliminate bump steer.

As for camber, 2.5deg neg camber is not enough on the front if running slicks. I know a guy in an n/a falcon who races at Lakeside here in Brisbane with 6deg neg camber on the front and wears front tyres evenly, he pushes mighty hard though.

If I was to set up my R33 for circuit racing using slicks I'd have 3.5-4deg neg camber on the front with probably 0 toe, maybe 2deg neg camber on the rear with about 2mm toe in. About 8deg positive castor on the front and traction arms would be adjusted according to trial and error on the track and ride height.

[tarmac]

^^ Thanks alot, gives me a good starting point. Appreciated. What are your thoughts on running a locked diff as opposed to standard lsd, is the understeer part going to play quite a major role in the cars handling? Ive driven some 2 way lsd's and its pritty much like driving a lock diff anyway,