Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

help, I went to get grocerys and when I went to drive home, started the stag up,,, it idled really low and was fighting not to stall, then cleared up but wont go over like 2.3k or so,, just like its hitting limiter,, really nead help guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/330649-help-engine-wont-go-over-2k-rpm/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Sounds like you need to visit a tuner mate. Tell them the symptoms and they can plug in their diagnostic software and suggest the fix.

Another method is to borrow someone elses AFM from an M35 and plug that in place of yours.

Moisture in the AFM?

I'm not sure about M35's but most AFM are hot wire. They have a limited life due to the thermal cycles they go though. You might have even gone over a speed hump and it may have broken. The only way you can find out if they are good or bad is diagnostic software or replace it with a working version.

more than likely it's the AFM....mine died two weeks ago for no reason as well.

Get the codes.....pretty sure you can get an second hand x-trail one.....or you can go for the 1 year warranty approach and buy a new one....Hornsby Nissan had em in stock....get a price from them I'll see if I can beat it.

Thanks everyone. Fault code 0100. Took a couple of tries to get it to flash, bu got it in the end.

Now to see about getting a new afm. Anyone know where is good to go? Nissan is one. Any other.

I have an s2 afm I'm selling I'll pm u

Thanks everyone. Fault code 0100. Took a couple of tries to get it to flash, bu got it in the end.

Now to see about getting a new afm. Anyone know where is good to go? Nissan is one. Any other.

Arnt wc34 and m35 different?

some of the C34 guys get a little confused.....I give you a heads up as they don't quite get it :nyaanyaa:......our car is 98% different to the C34! So when you hear the line "Well on my C34......" more than likely they are completely wrong with the assessment!

Sorry in advance if I have offended any C34 owners :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...