Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a spare set for sale if interested. Almost new with only 500Kms on them. There's about 4 different sets of housings for that turbo. the wrong choice means nothing till about 5k rpm. Different spec for different applications.

The ones I have are good for someone looking to replace there standard turbo's with something that has more but doesn't want the lag to go with bigger turbos.

Sebaz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33093-r34-gtr-n1-turbos/#findComment-664550
Share on other sites

Can someone please tell me what R34 GTR N1 turbos are rated out? ive ben told they are 250 each by a mate, but im confused as some ppl say when the sell their N1's they are 300-320 hp each

Can any one tell me please

Thanks

M3M3NT0

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33093-r34-gtr-n1-turbos/#findComment-665829
Share on other sites

I have a set for sale. Near new and came off of a R34 GTR NUR spec. comes with the stainless NISMO extensions to suit. $4000 firm. 0409 573 124

Just do a search on the net "R34 GTR N1 turbo".

http://www.splparts.com

this US site list upgrades for the 300ZX (Z32)

Border N1 turbo kit Z32 $4203 US (special order) rated to 550rwhp

HKS GT2530 turbo kit Z32 $3720 US (special order)

I won't list all the details go to the site and read for yourself.

regards Phillip

p.s. I go to the Gold coast Monday through to Friday..you can look see and compare no obligations.

I'll bring the TD06's that I have for sale as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33093-r34-gtr-n1-turbos/#findComment-666052
Share on other sites

R34 N1's are rated 280PS each from memory. THere is only 1 type of N1 34 Turbo. If you need to clearify the model number let me know. I have a set in the garage. There isnt many different housings for the 34 N1 turbo. There is only 1

You may be able to change them but because they are a genuine Nissan Item, how can there be different housings?

Also i think $4,000 for near new ones with Nismo extensions are about the right price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33093-r34-gtr-n1-turbos/#findComment-666741
Share on other sites

Its simple.. with the size wheels the N1's run, different housing sizes mean different efficiency curves for the turbo. IE: effects how and when the turbo will spool up to boost and how long it will remain efficient. Yes one "part number" for the turbo. The ball bearing centre and wheels don't change however the housings can be ordered to suit. 4 I believe in total.

I have two sets of N1's and the're different.

Sebaz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33093-r34-gtr-n1-turbos/#findComment-669008
Share on other sites

Yes the different HP outputs quoted by different people is confusing, but not if you realise that N1 Turbos have different configuration from year to year and above all variations in boost, head work, cams, injectors, manifolds, EMS tune etc. All contribute to a different vehical response, driveablity and output.

BNR32 (NISMO)......Serial No. 14411-06U00 (F/M273 deg. plain thrust bearing centre)

T04B Compressor with a 0.42 A/R and 62T

T25 Turbine with a 0.64 A/R and CD79

BCNR33 (N1)......Serial No. 14411-24U10 (F/M360 deg. plain thrust bearing centre)

T3 Compressor with a 0.42 A/R and 55T

T25 Turbine with a 0.64 A/R and 62T

Included this for information...all R34 GTR's are Ball bearing turbo's...all previous models are only plain bearing.

BNR34 ......Serial No. 14411-AA300 (Ball bearing centre)

C100 Compressor with a 0.53 A/R and 50T

T25 Turbine with a 0.48 A/R and 62T

BNR34 (N1)......Serial No. 14411-AA401 (Ball bearing centre)

BNR34 (N1)......Serial No. 14411-AA402 (Ball bearing centre)

BNR34 (N1)......Serial No. 14411-AA403 (Ball bearing centre)

C106 Compressor with a 0.60 A/R and 55T

GT25 Turbine with a 0.64 A/R and 62T

regards Phillip

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33093-r34-gtr-n1-turbos/#findComment-669682
Share on other sites

The R34 GTR N1's: comparible in size and output to 2530's

*Is a modern design.

*It is a Ball Bearing Turbo. (spools up quicker)

*Has a GT25 Turbine, the same as modern HKS designs....with a built in wastegate divider.

*Will handle a lot more boost.

*Will give great response and streetability.

*Is capible of propelling a GTR into the elevens.

If your after bigger HP numbers.....want to go quicker over the quarter...get bigger twins or a large single.....but be prepared to spend on upgrades everywhere and compromise the street/drivability of your car.

Phillip

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33093-r34-gtr-n1-turbos/#findComment-669977
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

I had r33 N1's in my r33 gtr , with full exhaust , power f/c and ebc , everything else stock , even stock airbox , it was good for 11.7 1/4 mile @121 mph .

When i was in Japan i wanted to buy N1's for my r34 but because of the different types of N1's i desided to go hks gtss , they are not in the car yet , i want to run the car stock first .

it is definately possible to get into the 10's with n1 turbo's, i ran 11.18@126 at willowbank

recently with n1's and there is more in the car yet, best part is they have great response from down low in rpm.

cheers russell

it is definately possible to get into the 10's with n1 turbo's, i ran 11.18@126 at willowbank

recently with n1's and there is more in the car yet, best part is they have great response from down low in rpm.

cheers russell

Dont forget the 32 is a lot lighter than the r33 too .

Yea the N1's had very good power all the way from 4000 to the cut out .

it is definately possible to get into the 10's with n1 turbo's, i ran 11.18@126 at willowbank

recently with n1's and there is more in the car yet, best part is they have great response from down low in rpm.

cheers russell

What power were you making when you ran that time?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...