Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Since fitting the plenum, after driving around a bit, when I stop a bubbling/gurgling sound, it almost seems like coolant is boiling, comes from the rear of the motor

and I think it is in the hoses for the heater or that goes to the turbo. Remember it is not the standard set up as in the plenum fit the original circuit that goes to warm up the throttle body is not there. It was cut out and another line inserted to cool the turbo. I retained the bleed valve on top at the front.

I have bled the system five or six times to no avail. On a trip the temp does not get above centre of gauge and oil temp does not go over 110 even after hard driving.

Today it started to loose power completely just as it came on boost. Back off and away it goes AOK. Then it does it again. Turned round and went home up Henri Robert without a prob but it had to be driven off boost. Very difficult.

I am thinking there could be a connection with the coolant to the turbo.

Any ideas please???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331771-air-trapped-in-coolant-system/
Share on other sites

find a steep driveway and park nose up

also grab a coke bottle, cut the bottom off, wrap the small end (with the thread) in insulation tape then fill it with water

crack the bleeder bolt with that in, should force all the air out as its higher than the motor

hope that helps

did you hook all the water lines up the right way . there is only 1 thread with the right way on here

I followed ix9's DIY on Skylines. The only difference is that I retained the air bleeder.

Where is this "right way" thread???

  • 2 weeks later...

Is the top pipe going to the radiator feeling like it's boiling after the engines off?? I'd say you have a leek somewhere, my 260 was boiling like I said few months later the top tank shat it self, maybe just upgrade that with a nice think nismo number and low temp thermostat, if not u didn't go backwards! ! Have u ever added different coolants? This is goof to give u problems if so!

Still getting this gurgling sound after turning off engine. Tried bleeding etc. etc. etc..

Any more clues please???

chef_stagea said:
maybe just upgrade that with a nice think nismo number and low temp thermostat, if not u didn't go backwards! ! ...... This is goof to give u problems if so!

Good recommendations your giving here Adam you ****. On what basis is a lower temp thermostat and new radiator going to stop this gurgling sound?

To the issue:

So you have tried bleeding the system?

Radiator is full of coolant and the overflow tank is close'ish to the max line?

Yes Chris. Its all full. Had it parked uphill tried bleeding, which seemed to get a lot of air out, but still gurgles, and the sound comes from the back near the firewall. The sound is a steady "GLUG, GLUG, GLUG" after turning the engine off.

I am sure I connected all the water hoses the way it was detailed in ix9's DIY. The only thing I did different was to retain the bleed plug on the top of the engine.

I am using Nulon coolant.There does not appear to be any oil in the coolant nor coolant in the oil. My worry is that where the gurgle comes from is where the new connection was made for water to the turbo. It is a stock turbo, and I dont want to cook it.

Funnily the Stag is running really well after the mods. Fuel economy has improved to about 11L/100ks on the only trip I've had. Water temp on the stock gauge is still the same and my oil temp gauge is still reading the same.

what did you change? (what mod did you do)

b4 you bleed, crank the heater to full hot, could be air in the heater system, the hoses for that run around the back of the block

tom could you please go into further detail on your hill coolant bleeding method for future reference?

Are we putting the coke bottle with distilled water/coolant in the radiator cap or in the bleed screw as that what it sounds like....

coke bottle goes into the rad cap so you can raise the water level above the plenum

or you can put the nose up a hill to do the same

or do both if you so wish

thats how you are supposed to do vl's because holden put the radiators too low for the rb30

Someone has mentioned the little bleed screw near the thermostat by now surely? ( too lazy to read thread )

I had a really weird problem like this in my Pulsar - turned out the thermostat was bung.

something to look at I suppose

Someone has mentioned the little bleed screw near the thermostat by now surely? ( too lazy to read thread )

I had a really weird problem like this in my Pulsar - turned out the thermostat was bung.

something to look at I suppose

The bleed screw has been tried. I fitted it back at the start so the system could be bled. Might look into the thermostat.

Come to think of it now

mine gurgles sometimes after I turn it off

usually after I get stuck into it

sounds like it's coming from the back of the block between the firewall,my heater core has been byPassed too

Come to think of it now

mine gurgles sometimes after I turn it off

usually after I get stuck into it

sounds like it's coming from the back of the block between the firewall,my heater core has been byPassed too

Now we are talking. Why is it so????

i suggest using pipsters coke bottle trick and getting the motor to operating temp and holding the rev's at about 1500 rpm to help the coolent circulate then let it cool down you may have to do it a few times

it always has worked for me

maybe also pull a heater hose just off to se if you have coolent in the heater core

I might try and bleed out abit of air Sunday arvo

wen I first heard the gurgling I was well concerned that i'd f**ked something

it not a nice noise

haven't heard it in a while as I've been driving like a nanna(kidafa) cos I'm too scared I'll pop another cooler pipe

I need to shorten my heater core lines anyways while I'm at it cos wen my heater shat itself I just joined the hoses from the easiest spot and the stupidly long now for no reason

I might try and bleed out abit of air Sunday arvo

Why bother like its going to help your green, automatic baby seat carrying bucket one bit.

wen I first heard the gurgling I was well concerned that i'd f**ked something

Try fitting blue mesh, should magically make all issues vanish

haven't heard it in a while as I've been driving like a nanna(kidafa) cos I'm too scared I'll pop another cooler pipe

Sorry rod

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...