Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Wont Start Help!

dannyb

By dannyb,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

dannyb Contributor

dannyb

Posted
Posted

ok so i tried to start my car yesterday i unlocked it thus turning off the immobliser, as i tried to start the car the reds came on but as i turned the key to start everything went dead, the lights and my boost controler all still work but the car its self is dead and the alarm button doesn't unlock/lock the car.. I tried rermoving the battery still nothing so i left it and went out came home 5 hrs later the car unlocked and started..

Tried to use the car today same thing ive replaced the batterys in the key still nothing.. help any ideas would be great.

the car is a stagea rs260 with the stock immobliser that it came over with..

Thanks in advance for any help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331803-car-wont-start-help/
Share on other sites
Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted (edited)

clean your terminals..

actually reading that again - clarify dead?

lights on no start?

lights on turn key and lights out nothing happens?

bit more info.

two situations therer both with different solutions.

Edited by Chris Rogers
dannyb Contributor

dannyb

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok i tried to start it today first go it started, i then removed the battery cleaned the terminals and tried to start again nothing.. By dead i meen no reds, no radio, when i turn the key to start it therse only a click in the passanger footwell and the headlights only go to parkers..

My boost controler will light up but as i try to start the car it goes dead aswell, the interia light works as does the beep when i put my key in..

When it started the first time my turbo timer counted down like i had turned off the car and then reset to zero all with the car still running..

Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted (edited)

most likely a dead cell in the battery or low current on it. or bad wire on the ground of battery, power fuse-able link wires on the positive side of battery

loose terminals ?

if the battery is older then a few years most likely shot. jap battery, most likely dead.

most likely only 9-10volts on it, or the current output is too low.

Edited by sapphiregraphics
dannyb Contributor

dannyb

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for all the help guys she starts i checked all the connections and the battery voltage all good then an old nrma mate of my dads told me to chase down the immboliser module and disconect it and she started first go..

My question now is if i drive the car with the module disconected will it damage any other electrical components on the car..

Thanks again for all the help it saved me a lot of money :laugh:

jrm Veteran

jrm

Posted
Posted
So just by disconnecting an Immobilizer the car can start?

Whats the Point of an Immob?

So if i just go to my car and disconnect the wires to my immob (autowatch) the car can start? :)

doesn't sound like much of an immobiliser ..

dannyb Contributor

dannyb

Posted
  • Author
Posted
So just by disconnecting an Immobilizer the car can start?

Whats the Point of an Immob?

So if i just go to my car and disconnect the wires to my immob (autowatch) the car can start? :woot:

Ok so ive done some digging as to why the car would start with the immboliser disconnected........

In the 90's the laws came in that most cars need a immboliser so car companys hired alarm campanys to fit the cheapest nastiest units to their cars with most only just making the standards and most not making the aus standards, all immbolisers that comply to our standards are safe..

Thus the jap immboliser in my car being cheap and nasty is why my car started when disconected....

my immboliser now is a club lock and a dirty big chain from the steering wheel to the brake pedal :) until i get an aus standard immboliser fitted..

Hope that put your mind at ease..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...