Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got the spacer for the new turbo the other day and tried to pull out a stud out my exhaust manifold to get longer ones matched up and bent a spanner in the process. (they do cum out?) is my best bet to use an oxy?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332749-manifold-studs/
Share on other sites

Got the spacer for the new turbo the other day and tried to pull out a stud out my exhaust manifold to get longer ones matched up and bent a spanner in the process. (they do cum out?) is my best bet to use an oxy?

Yeah, a bit of localised heat will do the job nicely, you can also buy aerosol can "Freeze Spray" this stuff is excellent if you have limited access, or wiring nearby.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332749-manifold-studs/#findComment-5396404
Share on other sites

Soak them in WD40 CRC or similar. Put a nut on the end so it is flush and give it a few smart whacks with a hammer (if you can get a decent swing). Most people seem to end up with a few that have to be got out the hard way!! (Heat is for the head, not the studs).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332749-manifold-studs/#findComment-5397518
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

3 of mine came out fairly easy with a good soak in inox, the other broke off. they are made from a hard high tensile steel that a normal HSS drill wont touch, lucky i had access to some tungsten carbide cutters.

Sorry to bring up old post but planning to check and possibly replace exhaust manifold studs.

You reckon this method would work. http://www.ehow.com/how_5529323_remove-manifold-stud-toyota-truck.html

General jist wined on two nuts one on in reverse and turn inside nut.

Would be interested to get anybodies two cents on the method.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332749-manifold-studs/#findComment-5658349
Share on other sites

Yep, that's how you remove the studs. Only problem is if the studs break off when removing the nut, or removing the stud. If that happens you in for some fun trying to get them out.

The studs that bolt into the head are easier to remove than the 4 turbo mounting studs if you snap them off as they aren't hardened.

I didn't have any trouble with the exhaust manifold -> head studs, in fact some of them were already loose!! It was the turbo mounting studs that caused me issues.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332749-manifold-studs/#findComment-5658568
Share on other sites

If you need new studs, try these out,

I just bought them for my manifold and turbo - dump.

stainless steel with a copper nut.

The ones Nissan have put it are old(clearly lol) they are gonna F up when they come out.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200356383346&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_1050wt_905

If you need em :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332749-manifold-studs/#findComment-5658578
Share on other sites

If you need new studs, try these out,

I just bought them for my manifold and turbo - dump.

stainless steel with a copper nut.

The ones Nissan have put it are old(clearly lol) they are gonna F up when they come out.

http://cgi.ebay.com....T#ht_1050wt_905

If you need em :)

those ones are no good for a RB head, you need a fine thread, M10x1.25 and the studs are about 50mm long.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332749-manifold-studs/#findComment-5659664
Share on other sites

those ones are no good for a RB head, you need a fine thread, M10x1.25 and the studs are about 50mm long.

maybe send him a message, he does have smaller threads he's got a huge range.. designed for RB's as well.. get em overnight aswell.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332749-manifold-studs/#findComment-5659899
Share on other sites

Cheers Qwk and Aaron.

Thanks for the heads up on those ebay studs I'll look into them. Was just going to get the justjap ones.

I'm not to sure how good my Exhaust Manifold gaskets are so i'm toying with the idea of replacing if i'm going to go to the effort of replacing studs.. Qwk do you know if there is enough movement to do it without removing the turbo, if not I suppose I will do the turbo studs and gaskets as well.

cheers for ya advice.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332749-manifold-studs/#findComment-5661425
Share on other sites

definitely replace the exhaust manifold gasket, the last thing you want to do is have to pull it all back off to change it down the track. easier to do at the same time as the studs. it will be hard to do with the turbo still on, you will struggle to get onto some of the nuts around the turbo area.

my advice would be to remove the turbo to make it a lot easier to work on the manifold. change your manifold studs and gasket. also change the T3 turbo gasket while its off (you can reuse them but they are cheap to replace), and another one to keep in mind is the turbo dump gasket, it is a steel one like the T3 gasket so you can reuse it but again, it is cheap enough to replace. you can get all those gaskets of ebay but i'd recommend using someone like kudosmotorsport or justjap (site sponsors) atleast you know your getting the right ones, make sure you double check your stud thread size and pitch before ordering anything. it would suck to remove it all and have the wrong studs.

i would be leaving the 4 turbo mounting studs alone, unless they are damaged or get damaged during removal they are probably more trouble than its worth to replace. they are hardened steel and if you break one, unless you have access to some good metal working tools, you will struggle to get them out, normal HSS drill bits wont touch them, i had to use a tungsten carbide cutting tool to remove one of mine that snapped off. i've done a few turbo gasket changes and stock turbo swaps and just left them alone, never had any troubles down the track. the only reason i swapped them out on the stagea was to fit longer studs to fit a spacer place and bigger turbo to the stock manifold.

you never know, you may be lucky and they come out easy, 3 of mine came out easy using the method you posted earlier, there was just one that had to ruin my day rant.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332749-manifold-studs/#findComment-5661571
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • f**king around with the bro
    • Ludenham   44.2 tops day no issues  
    • Then today, I went to visit a man with an r33 hat Peter and Road and Race sorted the alignment. As it is being set up for general track/hillclimbs etc it has a heap of caster (7o), less camber than I am used to (1o front and 2o rear, as the caster looks after that in turns without the braking downsides), 3mm front toe out and 0 toe rear. Will see how that goes and track tyre wear to see if it does need more camber, but adjsustment is also limited with nismo arms and adjustable bushes at only 1 end. It does have a bent inner tie rod on the driver's side front but as it came up within spec I'll just leave that as is. So, that is getting close to my chapter of this story....could of tidy ups then a shakedown in early October before it finds a new home.
    • So, it went to Unigroup for a run in and tune on Friday, everything went (generally) well. In terms of fixes, the engine was good and there were no leaks. It needed plugs (I hadn't checked them because the coil pack cover was on a new engine and I couldn't imagine they weren't new.....but turns out the temporary plugs to just keep it sealed up were in there.....new plugs gapped to 0.8 and it was fine from there. Also, there was a little preload on the clutch slave which caused some slip. I haven't had the box off so I don't know what the clutch looks like; my guess it is brand new and the pedal had not been adjusted....backed that off a bit and it held fine. Last thing will have Dose crying....the idle especially when cold is a bit difficult between the cams, forward plenum, atmo blow off valve and an 80s air management system. It is fine when hot but a little uneven when cold, will see if I can sort or at least improve that one cold morning. Other than that, tuning went fine. It made 245 but was pulled back to 227 which 2 opportunities to improve in future. 1. The factory CAS is not great and was jumping around at high RPM, so Mark took 2 degrees out up top (that is why it stops making power and lost 20kw). Very safe this way and the extra power is available but will require a more modern ECU and better cam (or even better crank) sensor 2. The 2871 in factory housings is very big for a low mount, and the internal wastegate is too small, so it was creeping from mid range all the way to redline....the duty cycle on the boost controller is turned down a little for safety. That is much harder to fix, it would need a large external gate and that would require a whole bunch of other changes, so it will go as it is for now. It feels nice and healthy and safe, so should be good for about a billion laps like this.
    • what sort of caliper are they? If they are a slider and you gave everything a good clean, you might need to regrease the pins. My guess though is they will come good after some abuse as suggested above
×
×
  • Create New...