Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey...

Installed a sound system this morning in my R33 GTST.....JL splits in the front....JL two ways in the back....Kicker four channel amp and Kicker box subwoofer.....

Makes a whining sound (matches the rpm)....any suggestions / potential reasons why??

Cheers

Jeremy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332777-whining-noise-car-stereo/
Share on other sites

it's called alternator whine and caused by voltage differences and u can hear it as high frequency noise....i.e only on your front splits and not on the low frequency subwoofer.

try this

1. do not run power cables and rca side by side.

2. ground each amp independently and do not attach ground from one amp to the next

3. ground the HU to bare chassis metal...not some aluminium bracket on the inside of the dash

4. if none of the above works...use a ground loop isolator on the rca

i'm no expert in the field...but i have had the same problem before and have always managed to resolve it using the 4 steps above.

Edited by fcruz3r
Hey...

Installed a sound system this morning in my R33 GTST.....JL splits in the front....JL two ways in the back....Kicker four channel amp and Kicker box subwoofer.....

Makes a whining sound (matches the rpm)....any suggestions / potential reasons why??

Cheers

Jeremy

read this and see if any of it makes sense

Noise prevention

  • 2 weeks later...

Alternator whine is likely to be either;

- a poor ground from amp to chassis

make sure the metal is "bright" (get rid of paint by sanding) and that the ring fitting on your cable is making good contact. this includes your head unit ground cable as well.

- a poor ground from battery to chassis

rarely this in modern cars with small systems, but a good idea to upgrade the factory earth with an additional cable equal to the one from your amp to chassis. again, ensure good contacts.

- RCA interference

poor quality RCA's, RCA's that are "coiled" (due to being too long) or RCA's running near engine looms or other power cables can cause noise. easy way to check here is to unplug your RCA's and connect an iPod with a stero jack to RCA adapter. If your noise is still there, it is power side (earthing) if the noise is gone it is signal (RCA) side.

very rarely is it interference due to the head unit itself unless it is older than the hills or crap quality - like sound4 or something :D

If its a pioneer deck then that will be your problem.

what an ill informed comment.

Look pal rather then write the same thing as everyone else has I have given the op another possibility. As unlikey as that will be the issue it does still happen. And yes pioneer decks do have a reputation for being fragile. I am speaking from personal experience.

Look pal rather then write the same thing as everyone else has I have given the op another possibility. As unlikey as that will be the issue it does still happen. And yes pioneer decks do have a reputation for being fragile. I am speaking from personal experience.

from my roughly 25 years in the 12v industry , the Pioneer brand is 1 of the best in terms of features,dependability etc. so your comment isn't valid at all.

from my roughly 25 years in the 12v industry , the Pioneer brand is 1 of the best in terms of features,dependability etc. so your comment isn't valid at all.

lol my comments not valid. :P

You never heard of a fragile micro fuse common to pioneer decks?

pioneers are very well knows to blow "pico" and make whining noise

i had issues with mine and it drove me insane then i put a filter on acc side and it stopped it :)

will take some pics to make it easier and hope this can fix your problem as well

lol my comments not valid. :)

You never heard of a fragile micro fuse common to pioneer decks?

Get over it, you don't know what your talking about, I've installed at least a few thousand pioneer decks etc and never had 1 blow or even a return for problems from bad parts. never.

most issues are install related, bad wiring , shorts, etc

or people dragging to much current from the power antenna wire, use a relay !!!!! or ANY brand of deck will fry

speakers hissing/popping on "deck power" is normally caused by grounded speaker frames to speaker cables or shorted speaker leads hitting the speaker frames common on thin coax speakers, or blown capacitors on crossovers/noise filters

floating grounds thru antenna jacks can as well

Get over it, you don't know what your talking about, I've installed at least a few thousand pioneer decks etc and never had 1 blow or even a return for problems from bad parts. never.

most issues are install related, bad wiring , shorts, etc

or people dragging to much current from the power antenna wire, use a relay !!!!! or ANY brand of deck will fry

speakers hissing/popping on "deck power" is normally caused by grounded speaker frames to speaker cables or shorted speaker leads hitting the speaker frames common on thin coax speakers, or blown capacitors on crossovers/noise filters

floating grounds thru antenna jacks can as well

how bout you prove I don't know what I am talking about rather the spinning shit that you actually work in the audio industry?

it used to do it in my previous car (integra) when my rca was too close to the ecu.

When i pulled it away, then it wouldn't make the whining noise, but when it was closer, then it would come back.

Oh, and it was a very dodgy home audio install. That could also do it!

i also have a kicker 4channel amp

same noise, tried everything

somehtings thats even more strange is the fact i have four speakers connected to the thing yet i only need two RCA's connected for al speakers to work

someone explain that one to me as iv messed around with it lots and yea nothing works im guessing i dont have surround sound i just have two sterio sound

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
×
×
  • Create New...