Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i recieved my hks ssqv bov today, put it on, and its causing a shitload of chatter.

I dont get it, its a full atmospheric valve, why is it doing this?

I cant open the valve manually all the time, it will go from being able to be pushed open by fingers, to being "stuck" and feels like its hitting something????

Any help????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333692-bov-problem/
Share on other sites

pull it apart and have a look? pretty sure the SSQV are fairly simple, most BOV's are. Just make sure you remember where everything goes and oil it before re-assembling. It shouldnt be hitting anything if you just got it unless something has come dislodged inside

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333692-bov-problem/#findComment-5409275
Share on other sites

the screw on the back of it, loosen the lock nut and then adjust that, mine was way tight and pretty much surged all the time, also your length of intercooler piping and may make a difference and i also found that where my wastegate actuator line was coming from made a difference EG standard spot, big surge so i drilled and tapped into the boost pipe right after the turbo and it surged less

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333692-bov-problem/#findComment-5409829
Share on other sites

the screw on the back of it, loosen the lock nut and then adjust that, mine was way tight and pretty much surged all the time, also your length of intercooler piping and may make a difference and i also found that where my wastegate actuator line was coming from made a difference EG standard spot, big surge so i drilled and tapped into the boost pipe right after the turbo and it surged less

Is the fact im only running 9 psi going to make a difference??

The little pink pin slightly opens, but the rest of seal barely moves, the stock bov is louder than this one

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333692-bov-problem/#findComment-5409843
Share on other sites

they are meant to work in two stages but 9psi should be enough to open it fully, is the signal line going to it coming from your manifold (after the throttle body)

its in the exact same location as where the stock bov was, same vacuum line aswell. if i rev it and push the valve with my finger, its very loud, what i was expecting it to do normally. I took it apart today, moved the spring around and i am able to push it in now. But its as if the second stage is just way to weak to open properly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333692-bov-problem/#findComment-5409854
Share on other sites

it wont be loud if your just free revving it as no load on motor = not much boost when free rev.

take it for a spin, even take a spanner and adjust it on the road, until you are happy with it, it was said before and im sure you know now you have rebuild it they are pretty simple so no much can go wrong, im pretty sure that if the adjusting screw is out then it causes more surge and if its screwd in then you will have less of a surge but dont take my word for it it has been a long time since i have adjusted mine, good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333692-bov-problem/#findComment-5409867
Share on other sites

it wont be loud if your just free revving it as no load on motor = not much boost when free rev.

take it for a spin, even take a spanner and adjust it on the road, until you are happy with it, it was said before and im sure you know now you have rebuild it they are pretty simple so no much can go wrong, im pretty sure that if the adjusting screw is out then it causes more surge and if its screwd in then you will have less of a surge but dont take my word for it it has been a long time since i have adjusted mine, good luck

Thanks for your help mate, one last question, wheres the adjusting screw??

This is the bov below

post-69443-1282395898_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333692-bov-problem/#findComment-5409871
Share on other sites

that style (the newer one) is not adjustable and works of pressures, if you have lubed up the seat and the valve moves freely now take it for a drive and see what you think, if not then im sorry i was thinking you had the other type.

sorry again and good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333692-bov-problem/#findComment-5409882
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I should. But it already uses too much fuel for a daily. You might note my recco for engine chnages are almost exclusively to people who have it as a weekender/summer car. I don't even have room to keep the spares for this one, let alone another car.
    • If I had "perfect R33 GTR" kinda money I would have bought one of the crazy expensive low mileage HJA cars, but I am sadly not that wealthy. I already picked this car out of various Skylines for sale locally, most of which were worse in some way. Only a few cars were actually better but also more expensive. In terms of buying a motor locally, I at least have the option to inspect it myself and juding the seller as a person, and used or freshly rebuilt engines that some people sell are actually ok price-wise. I knew the car was going to require work, but shit piled up real fast and I haven't even driven 1000km yet as the turbo started oiling like a bitch within a few weeks after I got the car.   I assume it wasn't actually me who cracked it, though there is no way to know when that crack formed and if the previous owner even knew it was there. Buying another 05U Block can be a gamble, yeah, but the cheapest PRP cast block is like twice or more money-wise, and billet is 3 or 3 times as much. For now I am most likely just keeping the current engine, as a rebuild or engine swap isn't happening right now. But I am seriously considering buying a second engine and selling mine in return. Might be a sweet deal at the end.
    • Hi all. I need some help buying the correct size banjo bolts for my 2860 turbos. Because whoever installed them tore up the original part, I ordered new ones of this kind, because I just figured these were the most leak-resistant option as I already had trouble with a shitty braided line. I need to know the thread size of the smaller left hole, that is the turbo oil feed connection. I found out so far that the turbo oil inlet apparently has a 7/16"-24 thread, but I cannot find any listing or description of the thread size on this line. I do not have the original bolts. I tried using the bolts that were in the turbos (the ones that were mounted with the shitty braided line) but they sit very loosely so they can't be the right thread. Means either these bolts are the wrong ones (how do they fit the turbo then? no clue) or the wraparound-lines have a different thread than the turbo oil feed itself. Help is appreciated, asking Nissan directly is obviously not going to work.
    • EDIT: PSA to whoever stumbles upon this thread. It is in fact a crack in the block that caused this concern. Just letting you know. In my case, a few cm long hairline crack going horizontally above the turbo oil feed. Classic RB shit I guess
×
×
  • Create New...