Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had an accident tonight.

Basically, the car in front of me hit the brakes hard and i swerved around him, clipped his bumper and then i hit the vehicle in the other lane.

All is good though, and i've got comprehensive insurance, just wondering if the damage looks repairable? I'm hoping it can be repaired but i've got an aero front bar and i know they're not that common.

What do you reckon boys? Repairable or write off?

Front what I can see, the damage is:

Passenger head light

Both fenders

Bonnet is a bit bent

Front bar cracked and has a hole in it.

IMG_0758.jpg

IMG_0759.jpg

IMG_0762.jpg

IMG_0763.jpg

IMG_0760.jpg

IMG_0761.jpg

Edited by dimi108
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333731-repairable-or-write-off/
Share on other sites

Dimi, sorry to hear this..

It certainly look repairable as it mostly looks like panel damage and the headlight but those headlights are damn expensive.

Hope you are back on the road soon.

Cheers

Andy

Had an accident tonight.

Basically, the car in front of me hit the brakes hard and i swerved around him, clipped his bumper and then i hit the vehicle in the other lane.

All is good though, and i've got comprehensive insurance, just wondering if the damage looks repairable? I'm hoping it can be repaired but i've got an aero front bar and i know they're not that common.

Nissan can order the Aero bar in no problem.

Part number is K6020-AQ003 and it will come in unpainted.

First glance it looks fine.

However....

You'd need to look under/pull off the left guard to see if the sub-frame and if it's bent badly before drawing any conclusions.

+1

That's what I was thinking.

The price of the Aero front bar and one headlight.

Does anybody have an idea on how much an Aero front bar would cost brand new from Nissan?

Edited by dimi108
That's what I was thinking.

The price of the Aero front bar and one headlight.

Does anybody have an idea on how much an Aero front bar would cost brand new from Nissan?

Guessing at least $2K+ for a bumper

I have thinking this myself... i dont think ppl would realise the damage bill they could cause if they have a minor accident with these cars, especially if there not insured.. Thats why im happy NRMA insured me with the window option, for instance they dont know what there in for if i break the rear window!!!

Im sure your bill will be less then a write off, however we just lost our 2004 maxima insured for $17K with similar damage except scratch went down one whole side of the car aswell.

But i cant complain coz it paid for my stag ;):)

Haha, sounds like it ended up good for you Matty.

The Stagea is only insured for $12,000, so if it's a write off, i'll just add a few thousand on top of the payout and get another M35.

I'll just have to wait and see what the assesor says tomorrow.

Nissan can order the Aero bar in no problem.

Part number is K6020-AQ003 and it will come in unpainted.

:D

Oops, don't bother quoting that number - it is specific to my chassis and comes in the BX9 colour.

Best bet would be to give them your VIN so they can put it directly into FAST...

I couldn't get a price from them as it is a factory option item... in Japan, thus Japan have to price it up I am told.

For reference,an unpainted standard bumper for RS is $770 inc GST so I wouldn't think anymore than around the $1k mark for a new Aero bumper (unpainted)

Thanks fellas. I really appreciate the input, links and information.

The car has been taken to the assessment center and I should know weather it's a write off or repairable tomorrow :rofl:

I enquired about that bar a while ago, they were after $180 from memory.

Spoke to my panel beater about getting it repaired, he wasn't keen given the prominent area of the repair (front & centre), very hard to get flat & smooth, and very obvious if it's not. Makes more work for the panel beater, can end up costing much the same as a brand new part in prep to get the right result, and even then, it may not be perfect. But it's up to you.

I would be expecting to pay around the $1000 mark for the aero front bar, otherwise start looking second hand on Import Monster or try Jesse Streeter, he reckoned he could get most parts, when I contacted him.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...