Jump to content
SAU Community

Safe Boost For #4 Gtr V-spec

livewire

By livewire,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

livewire Experienced

livewire

Posted
Posted

Hi guys.

Dont shot me down for not doing a search cause i have but have come accross different findings.

I recently purchased an R34 GTR V-spec which has only 3" dump pipe-back exhaust, hks electronic boost controller. Im about fit a power FC and was just wondering what the stock turbos are capable of being boosted to as i have heard mixed comments. The boos controller was set to 90bar - low and 1.15bar - high. I noticed it actually peaked at 1.20 bar on high setting on the factory gauge on display screen so i have since turned it down to 1.00bar to be safe till i can get it on the dyno. Also, is there much gain in fitting a power fc using standard turbo's?? or am i better off waiting for aftermarket turbo's/injectors at least?

Any help would be great

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/334488-safe-boost-for-4-gtr-v-spec/
Share on other sites
maclarenf1 Experienced

maclarenf1

Posted
Posted

Subscribing to this

i will be getting one hopefully soon and need to know also... the search function does throw very differing results in this category

My roaming around the forum was that 1 Bar is SAFE and Reliable boost to run, but some people run much much higher and have no issues with stock ceramic jobs

I think with Power FC, you can tune it so you get lot better Fuel economy, response and power delivery and just all around more refine feel to the mods as if they were done in factor

also if you can PM me the Price you paid for V-Spec, will be great

DRD-00F Grand Master

DRD-00F

Posted
Posted

My 33 GTST was about the same when I bought my PFC, and while it didn't add any power, I have to say, it's one of the best engine mods I've ever done :D

The car ran much smoother, was much more responsive, I would definately do it again.

As for the boost, I'm not really sure for GTRs. I ran a bar through my single turbo and it never had any problems :)

R.3.2.G.T.R Grand Master

R.3.2.G.T.R

Posted
Posted

run em at 1bar as a safety measure, better than killing ur engine should the stock ceramic wheel fail at higher level, although having said that, they can also fail at 1bar, luck of the draw

not much getting a pfc tune if u are intending on upgrading other components in the near future as it will require a re-tune ($$$), and yes you will notice some difference with stock turbo and pfc tune as factory tune is rich

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Sigh... Same as any other ceramic turbo GTR

12-14psi MAX.

Run more, run the risk of a dead motor. Simple as that.

And ECU - same again, every car benefits from a good tune. Outright power might not change but power delivery & so on will especially when paired with cam gears.

R34 GTR, R32/R33 = same shit. Same stuff applies for all.

James_03 Mentor

James_03

Posted
Posted
I noticed it actually peaked at 1.20 bar on high setting on the factory gauge on display screen so i have since turned it down to 1.00bar to be safe till i can get it on the dyno

Whats getting it on the dyno going to do?

You should be running them at the factory boost level until you replace them, or as others have mentioned 1bar max. Just because others get away with 17-18 doesn't mean you will.

It's all too tempting to wind them up without doing the hard work first, but you pay for it dearly in the end.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted
Sigh... Same as any other ceramic turbo GTR

12-14psi MAX.

Run more, run the risk of a dead motor. Simple as that.

lol Ash, you of all people should know no number of threads or posts will ever over come the morons. You will always get SOMEONE saying "Ive run 1.5 bar no problem for a year straight" and up comes the new thread with everyone say YEAH YEAH 1.5 BAR!!

Such is teh forum. Make a 3 digit IQ part of the registration process :P

snozzle Mentor

snozzle

Posted
Posted (edited)

i was hoping the '#4' in thread title was referring to something funnny like your 4th engine in the car due to not knowing wat boost to run.................. doh wasted my time reading this thread

edit: i actually might put some constructive input into this thread since you had atleast 1 decent question.

dont bother tuning your gtr if its running stock turbos at 12-14psi etc, especially if its just on 1 bar and especially if your planning to mod it and get it tuned again later on. I didnt notice a world of difference after my tune. Not the most effective way to spend 300-500 bucks. Yeah small difference but kinda felt like i shoulda waited out till i had bigger injectors to make the most of the tuning time vs end result

R33 gts-t's are a different story, the stock gtr ecus are no where near as bad. Wait out till you get new turbos, bigger injectors, cam gears and other such support mods.

Edited by snozzle
livewire Experienced

livewire

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the whole idea of the post is to try find out how much boost they can handle so that i dont do any damage now and know what level to ask it to be tuned to on the dyno when i have power FC installed.

Whats getting it on the dyno going to do?

You should be running them at the factory boost level until you replace them, or as others have mentioned 1bar max. Just because others get away with 17-18 doesn't mean you will.

It's all too tempting to wind them up without doing the hard work first, but you pay for it dearly in the end.

livewire Experienced

livewire

Posted
  • Author
Posted

What about these Rebuilt factory turbo's with N1 spec steel turbines and 360 degree thrust bearings etc you see on ebay? Anyone tried and can comment on them or know if there is much gain from them opposed to the standard specs being exactly the same size??

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
the whole idea of the post is to try find out how much boost they can handle so that i dont do any damage now and know what level to ask it to be tuned to on the dyno when i have power FC installed.

There are dozens of threads on this topic already.

What about these Rebuilt factory turbo's with N1 spec steel turbines and 360 degree thrust bearings etc you see on ebay? Anyone tried and can comment on them or know if there is much gain from them opposed to the standard specs being exactly the same size??

You have a ball bearing R34 GTR, and you want to put crappy N1, bush bearing rebuilds in?

cheap, nasty, dont go near it.

Ok for the tightass R32 GTR owner just trying not to have a motor die, you are better off with Garrett -9s or similar if you are going to change turbos.

And same again - these have been well covered if you take the time to have a 5min search. Thread on the exact product not even 2 weeks ago.

choyda Veteran

choyda

Posted
Posted

Agree with R31Nismoid. Did all the research and eventually stumbled on the Garrett -5's or -7's thread that also covers the -9's.

I personally went with the -5's for my goals but its a great read when you're ready to replace the stockers.

These are Garrett straight swaps for the factory turbo's and best value for money compared to the big Jap brands.

livewire Experienced

livewire

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ahhh i see. Got a link to the topic by any chance?

Agree with R31Nismoid. Did all the research and eventually stumbled on the Garrett -5's or -7's thread that also covers the -9's.

I personally went with the -5's for my goals but its a great read when you're ready to replace the stockers.

These are Garrett straight swaps for the factory turbo's and best value for money compared to the big Jap brands.

Brandon Veteran

Brandon

Posted
Posted
Ahhh i see. Got a link to the topic by any chance?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/7-...ts-t254450.html

This is a very popular topic. I'm suprised you actually missed it...

Anyway, anyone knows where would be the cheapest to get the garretts range of turbo? Or is Streeter still the way to go?

Brandon Veteran

Brandon

Posted
Posted
I got mine through Elite Racing Here and he was about $100 cheaper than everyone else. This was over a year ago though.

Hmmm... I'll talk to Dan when the time comes then since he'll probably be installing anyway

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...