Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^ agreed.

Once you start factoring in all the rarer bits it will add up to a fair bit - things like

-Rear Window with no wiper

-Non ABS lines, holders, master cyl

-Single motor washer bottle - yes its different to a standard GTR :happy:

-N1 engine, N1 turbo's (of course you don't need these if its just a looks replica)

And when you're all said and done, you'd have spent triple for what is still a fairly standard car.

BUT - that aside, go for it. Will be great to see another fresh original GTR. A few people are starting to do this.

i am looking into buying 1 but i havent found 1 so if any body knows where 1 of these are let me know

i want to find a genuine car first then do a build to show room condition

the big question is how bad do you want one, and more importantly how much are you willing to pay :D

Even though i consider selling mine every now and then, one look at it and that silliness goes away.

BUT, everything has its price :)

i am looking into buying 1 but i havent found 1 so if any body knows where 1 of these are let me know

i want to find a genuine car first then do a build to show room condition

have u spoken to kristian from iron chef

i am looking into buying 1 but i havent found 1 so if any body knows where 1 of these are let me know

i want to find a genuine car first then do a build to show room condition

Perhaps you'd like to make contact with the owner of the N1 R32 GT-R that will appear on...

Cover Story of Cars Guide - Daily Telegraph, early in October???

the big question is how bad do you want one, and more importantly how much are you willing to pay :cool:

Even though i consider selling mine every now and then, one look at it and that silliness goes away.

BUT, everything has its price :P

+1. Although mine's got small lil flaws around, I still find it hard to part with.

^haha

I think the important question here is how do we get all 3 above N1's in one spot at the same time for a nice photo shoot :D

Hahaha no idea. The last I heard was someone planning to organize some N1 meet. Nothing concrete yet though.

However, driving to Sydney wouldnt be an issue if cops dont do you for less than 95dB.

Hahaha no idea. The last I heard was someone planning to organize some N1 meet. Nothing concrete yet though.

However, driving to Sydney wouldnt be an issue if cops dont do you for less than 95dB.

Thats's 2, its down to you now Kristian :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...