Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Finished tuning the little old RB20 last night using 50% CSR E85 and 50% BP98 mix (to make a E42.5) and was very surprised by the torque... Power was just under what I was hoping for but still very plenty for chirping 3rd.

Car mods as follows

K&N Filter

Z32 Afm

China cooler and piping

Deatschwerks 750cc injectors

Motor dead stock

Hypergear ATR43G3 0.63 internal gate on standard manifold

Full 3" exhaust

Walbro 255L/hr pump

Running 22psi on the E42.5

399.5hp or 298kw and 523.1Nm

08092010129.jpg

BP98 curve vs E42.5 curve

SAM_0019.jpg

Edited by SimonR32
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336145-rb20-torque-monster/
Share on other sites

Very nice :D And fairly consistent with one I tuned late last year, "unknown" T3/T4 on stock manifolds and a GTSLink running GTR Injectors and a Walbro fuel pump on 20psi, using E33 fuel.

RB20_E33.jpg

Do you have a boost curve? Looks like a real interesting shape "curve".

Do you have a boost curve? Looks like a real interesting shape "curve".

I can get one pretty easily... It ramps hard hits about 24psi then drops back off to a dead flat 22psi till redline!

Hits a brick wall at that power, thus the flat top end of the curve

Ah yep, thought that might be the case (hitting 24 and dropping back) - was going to ask, as the one we did sortof hit around 17psi and crept up to 20psi... hence having a bit more of a peaky looking curve. We were working with a 2.5bar MAP sensor so 20psi was about the highest we felt safe going to, still makes for a hell of a quick car though :D

Its got the correction setup to flywheel..... its all flywheel measurements.... not wheel measurements

ooh and the correction is set to SAE which is an older measurement (gives about 5-8% inflation) switch it across to SAE 2004 (latest rating)

Will only actually be flywheel if they have something in the TCF field, the result I posted was axle power and I'd imagine if we had a 40%+ blend and were running 22psi we'd be at least as high as he was making. We had absolutely no hint of running out of flow and had a bit less lag, which is interesting as we were running a fairly quick run rate too.

Its got the correction setup to flywheel..... its all flywheel measurements.... not wheel measurements

ooh and the correction is set to SAE which is an older measurement (gives about 5-8% inflation) switch it across to SAE 2004 (latest rating)

Without any correction it was 393hp so more like 1.5%

Paint code: customgreen2010specbybbk

Hehe nice - sorry just trying to work out what to paint mine - me likey - you've pretty much nailed the dark green I had in my head.

What sort of max duty are the 750 injectors running at with the ethanol blend?

Wow that's laggy for an RB25 making 300rwkw. :\ An RB25 making 300rwkw should have way more than 2500rpm of usable torque!

Its not the most responsive turbo. Well compare to a GT3076 .82 with same boost. I think its not too bad. Unless if you run E85 and cam gears. There is nothing installed on it that can advance the turbo's response or power output.

post-a303078-atr43vsgt3076.JPG

Sigh... Thats not really a useful comparison. You can clearly see the GT3076 setup has notable issues.

Is there any surge on it Simon? Looks like its building and then just tapers a tad early on the climb up.

Something my 600hp GT30 did, it wasn't really audible eithe which didnt help to workout

Is there any surge on it Simon? Looks like its building and then just tapers a tad early on the climb up.

Something my 600hp GT30 did, it wasn't really audible eithe which didnt help to workout

Are you talking about between 5000-5250?!?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...