Jump to content
SAU Community

Corner Weighting/ Allignment Possible Group Buy...


Recommended Posts

There seems to be plenty of people out there who have neat weekend circuit cars which have had loads of money thrown at the suspension, then a basic allignment done to someones suggested specs leaving it at that.

To go the extra step and have the car properly set-up or checked is/ can be expensive and some of the time your fed rubbish information from the shop about the car with the intention of making a quick dollar from you.

So im putting a possible group buy up which will go right ahead if there is enough interest and its worth my time to organise and carry out.

We have the latest in corner weighting technology, wheel alignement and geometry measuring tools at our disposal which im going to offer the use of too members.

Basicly what this will include is setting the vehicle up on the scales and a begining measurement taken.

Also a conversation regarding any handling issues or problems you may be having and want looked at.

An allignement check will be the second thing to happen, as well as a basic component inspection.

The vehicles basic geometry measured, primarily droop, roll axis, center of gravity and a guideline rollcenter calculated. (bump steer can be measured and adjusted at this point if you are prepared to go that far)

Changes will now be made to the suspension droop if required and advise offered on the remaining geometry

(far to many lowered/coilover fitted cars have little to no droop so it is critical)

We will then try and determine a suitable way to set the static weight of your vehicle. By temporarily moving items around such as batteries, removing seats etc etc. Once we have a temporary static weight thats within the guidlines for your vehicle (how far you want to go moving things around) we can then move on.

While everything is in its hypothetical new home we will set the cross weights of the vehicle by making changes to coilovers and slight ride height adjustments where/when possible.

An accurate wheel alignement will be carried out with the specifications we decide between the owner and myself. A compromise for more road orientated cars and a more track specific set-up for the circuit based vehicles, what we can do with your car will depend on what you have fitted to it prior to the day.

Once complete everything can be moved back to its original position or left if possible.

Finally a recommendation about the vehicle, what you can do to help solve potential handling problems at the track if you encounter them and what you may want to look at doing to the vehicle suspension wise latter on.

You can then take the vehicle away knowing exactly what has happened to it and what you may want to address latter. Also learning a thing or two along the way.

You will know where things need to be moved to in order to achieve the correct static weight distribution and in your own time can make those modifications how/when you want to.

All the data and information we aquire from your vehicle will be given to you for future referance and set-up's latter on should you change the car around etc.

Im not out there to make a squillion bucks from this I dont really care if no one is interested. Im mearly offering people a solution to a service that to date is hit and miss in regards to the job being done well, properly and honestly.

A well balanced car is always going to be a faster car no matter who the driver is or how much experiance they have behind the wheel....

Cost wise im going to start the whole thing at $300. (call around and get a few quotes to do this kind of work)

The price can rise depending how far people want to go with their static weights and bump steer measurments etc but if thats the case we will discuss before going any further from the basic package.

Lets say its open for a fortnight from today and see if there is enough interest to get it happening. If people want specific information about the equipment used (brands, age calibration etc) I have no problem sharing

Brad.

In Sydney and in if it happens when Im in Sydney (work is the devil), been to a few different shops and they all give me different answers to my handling concerns with out really explaining to me the reasons.

Also what type of set ups do you normaly do, street-track ?

Does this include correct height adjustment and camber/toe and that other one that I can never remember but makes my tyres rub on the inner guards ? :whistling:

Only ask this as I am a novice at doing super sprints and also use my car as a weekend cruiser, tyre wear is not a issue as I run my stockers when cruising and only have my semis on at the track which is the only place the car really gets worked hard.

Very interested!

Although I have only got the sk whiteline/bilstein kit it would be nice to get my camber and castor right instead of just trusting what the shop tells me at alignment time.

As said above......always a different story from different shops, gets bloody confusing

Interested as well.

I am looking to move my battery. Sounds like I should wait before I do.

Any dates or further information?

Have to fix my car first so hopefully will be ready.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
×
×
  • Create New...