Jump to content
SAU Community

Burning (oil?) Smell Through Ac

simply_mighty

By simply_mighty,
in Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

simply_mighty Enthusiast

simply_mighty

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi guys,

I recently purchased my M35 250T RS privately and am based in Canberra.

Today while driving home from work I noticed a distinct burning-oil-type smell coming from the AC vents that disappeared when the AC was turned off. Additionally, when I pulled over and opened the bonnet I could see a faint smoke (if you will) coming from the passenger side near the dipstick. The car was only recently serviced on Tuesday last week and the previous owner has not had any trouble with the car in such a way before.

I had a quick look underneath and there is a bit of oil residue/seepage near the turbo (Passenger side). I haven't noticed a decrease in boost pressure and engine temps are fine (as far as stocko guages can tell me). From work colleagues who have been car pooling with me at the time and on earlier dates; they say they've noticed it very briefly when driving around but thought it was the vehicles that were in front of us at the time.

The main thing is, my partner's car is in strife and we're due a baby any day now so I want to know what this is so I can rectify it ASAP, so I ask what are possible options for this?

P.S - LONG time reader, first time poster :P

Sean

Edited by simply_mighty
Link to comment
Share on other sites
iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

As chook said, check the oil level... but you should know that a common complaint with the VQ25det is that the passenger side bank will leak oil from under the cam cover. It may be leaking and dripping onto the turbo which could explain the smoke. "Simple" solution is to have the gasket under the cam cover replaced.

If the previous owner went nuts with the degreaser, might that actually be what you are smelling?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
alu-siv_stagea Community Regular

alu-siv_stagea

Posted
Posted

perhaps some oil leaked out of the oil filter at time of service and dripped down around the gearbox i noticed it a couple of times when i did servicing on my series two, and its the same story a burning smell through the vents and minor smoke from under the bonnet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted
So the general consensus is that it is a relatively easy fix?

Where would I go about sourcing a gasket if need be?

Sean

Nissan, I think it was around $70 unless that was an imported price. It isnt the same as the 350z so I will have to get the part no. for you.

Not a big job, just be careful with the rear section, its hard to keep the rubber gasket in the groove due to the heater pipes. You will need to remove the top part of the plenum first though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted (edited)
So the general consensus is that it is a relatively easy fix?

Where would I go about sourcing a gasket if need be?

Sean

Nissan

Part #13270-AL612 :dry:

Should be around $20 and will have to come from Japan (10 day lead time)

Edited by iamhe77
Link to comment
Share on other sites
iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted
Cheers iamhe77 - is that for both or just the one bank? I assume just the one bank although I may as well do both while I'm there

Sean

Just the passenger side bank mate.

If the driver's side bank isn't leaking, don't bother replacing it... Reason being that there are built in seals in the cam covers which stop oil from going into the spark plug holes. These seals can break.

So if it ain't broke, don't fix it in this instance :D

If the seal is busted, you will have to buy a new cam cover... and they go for around $300 each :dry:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
matty_M35 Collaborator

matty_M35

Posted
Posted

just did my one the other week had the same smell you speak of!! check with a torch at the rear of the passenger cam seal you will prob see a liitle seepage.. replacing is a little bit of a bitch due to the space you have to work with.. and bit and pieces you need to move.. if you have a uni-joint socket adapter it will be your best friend for removing all the cam cover bolts.. and be sure to be careful not to damage the sparkplug valley seals. (i applied some dirko to one of mine as the spark plug was swimming in oil)

the part cost me $27 from col crawford nissan brookvale 2 days but thats coz it came from WA.

all this is pending thats the problem.. goodluck!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's Race Car - The Most Overdue Build Thread On Sau

      By Duncan · Posted

      In other important race car news, instead of fixing the race car I changed the crank seals on the chainsaw, because wood burner Some damn tight (and lock tighted) m6 head bolts Who knew plastic crank cases were a thing! Quick tip, don't trust the youtube videos that say you can pull the old seals out with the head on in a husky 440e...not true, their crank seal tucks in behind the cover both sides. I'm not sure I'm a psychopath, but these things are damn loud....hope I can put all the bits back in the right place    Happily, it is now back to turning fallen trees into a combination of firewood logs and wood chips....just need a clear day to get into it properly
    • Murray_Calavera
      Never ending fuel pump drama

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I've got 60L of e85 in there at the moment
    • Duncan
      Never ending fuel pump drama

      By Duncan · Posted

      Don't forget to make sure the tank is full to the brim before you try to replace the fuel pump too, that is an essential step.
    • Duncan
      Arm ball joint

      By Duncan · Posted

      No, 260RS/4wd stagea is 33 GTR/GTS4 double wishbone all round, not struts. The 2wd cars are confusingly strut front. At there rear there is one balljoint at the outer end of the lower control arm. If you have HICAS (my Stagea doesn't, but I think 260RS did, there will be a balljoint of sorts where the HICAS arm attaches to the rear of the hub At the front, there are ball joints either end of the lower control arm, plus the tie rod end for the steering arm
    • Duncan
      Thanks Santa (the neverending trials of the 400,000klm, 400kw, RB30, manual swapped Stagea)

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, 2 months later, I just couldn't see any way to be happy with that tank setup. Basically the baffle area is too big and too leaky, the sender was miles off and the no low fuel light thing really bugs me. Other than the fact the fuel hat could safely supply enough power to the pump, it was worse than factory. Biggest thing that bugged me is it would still run out of fuel in medium-high g corners from about 1/4 tank down which is annoying when you are trying to have a zoom, not to mention potentially engine killing if it gets just the right amount of lean-ness....and we've got a few of those corners in our round trip to town (well, bunnings...) So, credit to Frenchy's, they have put together a much better designed setup with what is effectively an in tank surge setup.   As it happens the actual hat is the same, so I switched the fittings across, re-used the single 525 pump, and added a spare pierburg lift pump that I had (must remember to replace that stock, it was a spare for the race car). The only real work to get it all done was to add a second power and earth to the hat which I did by going from a single output to double output relay (very low draw on the lift pump) and also the sender unit that clips into the factory pump holder was again way too loose (so I re-used the 2mm shims from the previous setup). Finally, I added the low fuel light sender from the factory cradle. So....I'll report back how it handles low fuel, and if the sender has any relation to actual fuel level in the tank....
×
×
  • Create New...