Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just got home from a dyno day at Autoworx with my club West Coast Cruisers, really not happy with my car...

Long story short, it was converted to GTT using parts from a donor car about 2 months ago. At the time, KYP (the garage that did the conversion) had the car dynoed at Autoworx to make sure the AFR's were ok, car made 220rwhp @10psi with FMIC, EBC, stock exhaust except for the crappy mild steel 2.5" cat-back it had from when it was NA, stock non-turbo fuel pump, Apexi pod filter, and Splitfire coilpacks. They also replaced all the serviceable items, so new o2 sensor, new water pump, new timing belt, new gaskets, etc.

Soon after getting it back from KYP I got a custom 3" straight-cut stainless steel cat-back exhaust (made by Kermit), 5" high-flow cat, and 3" bellmouth Tomei dump/front pipe. Then I installed a 550hp Walbro fuel pump, and made up a heatshield for my pod filter. 2 weeks ago I got a NIStune ecu installed and tuned by Andrew at Hyperdrive, one of SAUWA's sponsors and a very reputable tuner in WA... He set high boost on the EBC to 13.5psi, and the car made 243.0rwhp. Doesn't seem too flash, but Hyperdrives dyno is known to read about 20-30hp below, so Andrew told me my car was realistically making about 265-270rwhp.

Since then the car has seemed to drive really well, it feels fast and it was a lot smoother than before it was tuned. But my fuel economy became shocking. I was getting about 280kms to a tank of fuel, driving on low boost and hardly ever hitting boost (I'm pretty relaxed, I drive it like it is a normal car). It is no better on high boost, and no better if I put my foot down all the time. Before the car was tuned I was getting about 360kms to a tank.

Now today, I ran my car at Autoworx again and the result was 233.5rwhp. 10 less than I got at Hyperdrive which is meant to read low, and only 13 more than when it ran at Autoworx a couple of months earlier, despite all my modifications since then. The worst part is my fuel consumption. I filled my car up in the morning before heading to Autoworx, and when I got home my fuel gauge was sitting on the half way mark and I've only done 85kms...

So I don't understand what the problem is... Bad tune is the only thing I can come up with. I have asked Andrew about it, but he said the only thing he can do is put it back on the dyno but I don't really want to pay for more dyno time and then find he still can't tell me what the problem is...

Any suggestions? I will upload the two dyno charts for comparison in a sec... I tried to be as detailed as I could, but feel free to ask me anthing if I missed something, I'm all ears.

Thanks guys,

Martin.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337389-not-happy-something-is-wrong/
Share on other sites

First thing i'd do is check that closed loop control is working correctly via CONSULT (use the nistune cable and software if you have it) The o2 sensor readout should flick back and forth during light load as the ECU changes to the fuel delivery hunting for stoichiometric. Generally the tuner mostly tunes the full load cells (which dont use closed loop). If you're babying it around the econ shouldnt change much at all AFAIK.

If closed loop is not working it could be o2 sensor, or the tuner forgot to turn it back on (IIRC there's a number of different ways to toggle closed loop with nistune)

Personally, I would have the current tune backed up then cut my losses and have it re-tuned elsewhere.

I doubt it can be much more than that when you gained so little HP from all those mods, combined with poor economy it seems like it should be tune related. If there was a separate issue it would throw the tune out when fixed anyway.

Ok thanks mate, I have been racking my brains trying to think of what else it could be other than a dodgy tune as Hyperdrive are supposed to be NIStune specialists :D I'll get on the phone to Andrew tomorrow then.

Strange dude...

My tune at the moment was done by Andrew. It's got its flaws its not perfect, he only spent a few runs tuning my car originally, but I trust Andrew, never had a problem with his tune/work in over 30,000kms.

Here's my most recent graph from his tune:

P1000847.jpg

Even with weird AFRs like that its still safe and hasn't caused me any problems...

I'd encourage you to give it (tuning) a go yourself. (I'll lend ya my lambda sensor and AFR gauge if ya really want!) Depends on the Nistune software (how easy it is to use), but my EMS software wasn't hard at all.

Since then I've done a bit of my own tuning, tuned out a rough spot around 3k rpm and -10mmhg vacuum and i'm attempting to tune out another one at about 2k rpm and similar load.

The poor fuel economy could be caused by decelleration fuel cut or maybe your cruising AFRs are too rich. I've been working for the WA sporting car club today @ barbagallo today, and I've seen numerous cars with Hyperdrive stickers on them, so I doubt Andrew would've given your car back without it having a decent enough tune...

put it on a dyno and check the basics. so many variables and so many things changed.

everyone is quick to blame the workshop so before you go doing any of that, get it all checked and check the basics on the dyno. check the tune, check the timing, check the fuel, check the fuel pump (walbro's can be ass sometimes) check the AFR's

excessive fuel usuage is usually

poor tune

poor closed loop

constant loading the car up / bring it on boost repeatedly

a good check is to give the car to your girlfriend or mum and let her drive it for a few days

i bet the economy doulbes or triples when they drive it (ie they baby it and dont bring it on boost constantly)

i know you said you dont do it, but its a simple mechnical check, if if they get same ass economy its not your driving

a good check is to give the car to your girlfriend or mum and let her drive it for a few days

i bet the economy doulbes or triples when they drive it (ie they baby it and dont bring it on boost constantly)

That is a sure way to use more fuel with Ms Wolv behind the wheel. She is always ramping it onto boost.

Everyones dyno "reads low", its the new black.

:D

The car needs to go back to the tuner, there is little else you can do.....

Everyones dyno "reads low", its the new black.

Yeah but that's easy to say when your car makes 450kw mate! haha

I'm the first person to add 30hp to my dyno graph above, cos it was on HD's dyno hahaha

My car might only make 223hp there, but im still convinced its a fast car. I've driven some pretty half decent cars around Barbagallo (mk1 esky with 350hp turbo cosworth, 300hp rb25 s13), and my car isn't that dissimilar in feel and accelleration... There's def something wrong with that dyno haha Maybe it needs a re-calibration?

'Street-tuning-yourself-and-using-your-butt-dyno' is the new black... lol That was me about 5 minutes ago :D

andrew seams to ignore light load tuning and only do full load tunes when hes busy. if he didnt spend much time on it then i dare say you have a rich light load map with no where near enough timing. i'm in perth and have nistune software if you want me to take a look at it for you?

Would you mind mate? You want beer or something? I'm not sure how long he spent working on it, it was there all day but he had a couple of other cars to do and he had to install the board in my ecu so may not have spent that much time actually tuning it...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...