Jump to content
SAU Community

What Size Is Your Cat-back Exhaust?

ClutchBurndout-:(

By ClutchBurndout-:(,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

What Size Is Your Cat-back Exhaust?  

69 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

ClutchBurndout-:( Grand Master

ClutchBurndout-:(

Posted
Posted

Im just curious what everyone's exhaust system is, this is for R33 gtst only, and just the cat-back size, not the dump/front or cat.

ive only done it up to 3.5" because im referring to street cars, not trackies.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337753-what-size-is-your-cat-back-exhaust/
Share on other sites
-_-StRyDeR-_- Experienced

-_-StRyDeR-_-

Posted
Posted (edited)

I know its not a r33 but, i had a HKS super dragger cat back on my rb20det and it was sooo quiet, loved it, however its now on my 25-30combo and nothing i do can shut it up hahaha

oh and i think its over 4" tip... but about 10 barrel

Edited by -_-StRyDeR-_-
ClutchBurndout-:( Grand Master

ClutchBurndout-:(

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Keep the 3.5 change the rear muffler.

ive changed it,

A you cant get 3.5" ovel mufflers

B 3.5" inlet cannons are hard to find that dont have the 4.5" tip (which is the part that makes it drone)

i have the xforce 3.5 in, 4.5 out, and its deep and shitty sounding

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted
is there any benafit of having a 3.5inch system when your pulling about 170rwkw? i have the 3.5 and i hate my exhaust note...

at 170kw a 3ich or 3.5 wont make a difference, what type of exhuast is it reasoanator in middle with a cannon or oval muffler at the rear?

ClutchBurndout-:( Grand Master

ClutchBurndout-:(

Posted
  • Author
Posted
at 170kw a 3ich or 3.5 wont make a difference, what type of exhuast is it reasoanator in middle with a cannon or oval muffler at the rear?

it has a hotdog in the middle and cannon on the back, thinking of taking the hotdog out...

SlowSkyline Collaborator

SlowSkyline

Posted
Posted
ive changed it,

A you cant get 3.5" ovel mufflers

B 3.5" inlet cannons are hard to find that dont have the 4.5" tip (which is the part that makes it drone)

i have the xforce 3.5 in, 4.5 out, and its deep and shitty sounding

You can get 3.5" oval mufflers, i have a 4" in/out oval muffler, very deep note.

magnaflow make them in their race series range. All stainless, exy but.

jarrod83 Community Regular

jarrod83

Posted
Posted

there is other ways to fix the note.. i had a 3.5 inch dump/cat, to a 3 inch hks exhaust that megaphoned out to 90mm just before the muffler, it sounded lovely with a 3inch dump but had a horrible drone with the 3.5 inch. replaced it with a dual 3.5" xforce muffler with a section rewelded so it was full 3.5", it is very quiet and no drone, a touch louder than a stock exhaust.. the only problem im having is because of the second oval muffler is where the resonator would usually sit, it does sit a bit closer to the ground

Jarrod

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted
ive changed it,

A you cant get 3.5" ovel mufflers

B 3.5" inlet cannons are hard to find that dont have the 4.5" tip (which is the part that makes it drone)

i have the xforce 3.5 in, 4.5 out, and its deep and shitty sounding

The tip has nothing to do with the drone, it is due to the muffler size construction and number used, if you have a 3.5 system with a single straight through muffler im not surprised it drones, your best bet is to get another inline oval 3.5" straight through muffler and put it in the middle of the exhaust, should quieten it down quite a bit removing the drone and bass.

I had 2 straight through 3" mufflers on a 3" system and it was almost as quiet as stock, removed one and it has a very nice note now, not too loud and droney but not too quiet either. 3->3.5 is a reasonable size increase so I think you will find 2 mufflers will make it sound a lot nicer, most workshops will change it out for a plain resonator if you find it is too quite for not much more money.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...