Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

At the moment I have a 500Gb WD 2.5inch portable HDD and I have been exceptionally happy with it. Now I have pretty much filled it up so I need an upgrade. The only larger all in one 2.5inch HDDs I can find in shops are 640Gb but what I really want is at least 1TB. I would prefer to keep the 2.5inch size as it is a lot easier for travelling (no power cable or extra USB port required- my EEEPC has only 3 USBs). So I am guessing my only other option is to get a notebook 1TB 2.5inch HDD and an external case. Is there another option which wont cost a fortune? If not what are peoples experiences with 2.5inch HDDs in external cases? reliability?

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337844-portable-hdd-recommendations/
Share on other sites

Mate for the cost of 1TB 2.5" HDD, just buy a whole new 3.5" external.

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_p...oducts_id=14645

$109 - basically similar to what i have.

Either way there isnt anything wrong with putting a internal 2.5" into a external casing, that's all you get in a external casing anyways. The drives themselves are no different :blink:

i've heard bad things about the protable hard drives for anything over 500mb. they start to get unreliable and you are better off with one that has it's own power cable. they are also a buttload cheaper. for example, through dick smith the WD 500gb passport HDD is $150, the 1TB is $279. if you go to the bigger destop type, a WD 1TB is $118 and 2TB is $189. so for $90 less, doing the desktop type will get you twice the storage.

yes i am aware their are cheaper places to ge them than dick smith, but their site was the quickest to get to and find prices on.

You prices are rubbish - 2x the price :rofl:

As for heard? There is nothing wrong with them. Whos spilling this rubbish?

My one that i paid $110 for (1TB external, 3.5") comes with its own power cable and has worked fine for ages now and i transfer a LOT of data over it.

It's the drive inside that is no different to what you could buy as a normal "HDD" over the counter and install into a PC.

How it's being powered makes no difference either. USB or fulltime cable makes no difference.

Inside a PC case they are only running direct off the PSU and not @ 12V anyway.

External HDD are not a problem in large sizes (USB powered or 240v). As R32nismoid said ur prices are a bit dear and have seen cheaper at the local Officeworks\Harveys\JB HIFI\etc stores. I would only buy the 2.5inch if u had a valid reason ie, connect to car usb connector, use with a mobile laptop etc. The pricing for a 2.5inch cannot be justified unless warranted. I recently purchased a 1.5" WD Elements for $99 during a sale at our local Officeworks store if thats any guideline for pricing to go by. It was cheaper there than what the consultancy firm I worked for could buy them for from their supplier.

i've heard bad things about the portable hard drives for anything over 500mb. they start to get unreliable and you are better off with one that has it's own power cable. they are also a buttload cheaper. for example, through dick smith the WD 500gb passport HDD is $150, the 1TB is $279. if you go to the bigger destop type, a WD 1TB is $118 and 2TB is $189. so for $90 less, doing the desktop type will get you twice the storage.

yes i am aware their are cheaper places to ge them than dick smith, but their site was the quickest to get to and find prices on.

You mean 500Gb right? :rofl:

As far as reliability goes, the main thing I found that seem to break 1st from my experience is the SATA to USB controller from the case... my friend's WD 160 one died & my WD 320's one is dying as well, in both instances I bought a new $19 cheapo case from my local computer store, opened the old one up & put the hard drive into the new case & it was good as new again.

You prices are rubbish - 2x the price :rofl:

As for heard? There is nothing wrong with them. Whos spilling this rubbish?

My one that i paid $110 for (1TB external, 3.5") comes with its own power cable and has worked fine for ages now and i transfer a LOT of data over it.

It's the drive inside that is no different to what you could buy as a normal "HDD" over the counter and install into a PC.

How it's being powered makes no difference either. USB or fulltime cable makes no difference.

Inside a PC case they are only running direct off the PSU and not @ 12V anyway.

it was only $9 more for the 1TB that you linked to. but then harvey norman here often have them for $95, so i'm just waiting for the next time they have a sale on.

Thanks guys, information most appreciated. From your suggestions and my circumstances it looks like a 2.5 inch drive in a generic external case will do the trick although now I am thinking about another option too but I will create a new thread as it isnt directly related.

Thanks again.

Loach..

Mate hit Yodabashi or Bic camera..cheap as cheaps..you should know that.

Stacks and stacks of drives mate for whatever your application and make sure you go with your passport for the 10% discount. Dont let them know you live in Japan, dont show your gaijin card, and keep your ketai in your pocket and tell em your a tourist.

You can fill your warranty card out when you get home.

Or just get a yodabashi gold card and save up some points and get a freebie

Loach..

Mate hit Yodabashi or Bic camera..cheap as cheaps..you should know that.

Stacks and stacks of drives mate for whatever your application and make sure you go with your passport for the 10% discount. Dont let them know you live in Japan, dont show your gaijin card, and keep your ketai in your pocket and tell em your a tourist.

You can fill your warranty card out when you get home.

Or just get a yodabashi gold card and save up some points and get a freebie

Yodabashi?? havent heard of that one? any around Gifu/Nagoya?

Forgot about BIC, thanks mate, might head there today actually as I will be passing through Nagoya station.

I tried Goodwill and Eiden but they are more expensive and have less stuff than Ofiiceworks in Australia.

Thanks heaps for the info about the 10% discount too. Maybe I should take my shoes off before walking into the shop and say Nihongo wakaranai to complete the - I dont live here - illusion.

Yodabashi?? havent heard of that one? any around Gifu/Nagoya?

Forgot about BIC, thanks mate, might head there today actually as I will be passing through Nagoya station.

I tried Goodwill and Eiden but they are more expensive and have less stuff than Ofiiceworks in Australia.

Thanks heaps for the info about the 10% discount too. Maybe I should take my shoes off before walking into the shop and say Nihongo wakaranai to complete the - I dont live here - illusion.

mate Yodabashi is electronic freaks porn shop..

You can shop online or go to the store. couple of big stores in the big smoke Tokyo..Dont know about Nagoya but have a suss on the site and see wheres closest to you.

You could always make a weekend of it and head to Tokes and chase some candy but do your shopping first as Yodabashi is no place to be with a hangover..blaring songs and announcements coming over the PA system non stop. Enough to turn any hungover foreigner into a knife wielding Akiharaba maniac.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...