Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, done a lot of research about which oil pump to use, then found this:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-RB-SERIES-HI...=item20b3e94e13

Anyone seen/heard of/used one of these??? If so, good or complete sh!t???

Looks very similar to a G-reddy/nismo style pump.

Obviously would love to get a Tomei, but cannot afford one.

Any info on these good or bad would be very helpful.

Thanks, Dave.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338110-rb-high-flow-oil-pump-no-brand/
Share on other sites

i was about to ask a similar question as i just found this one. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

possibly a cheap batch from overseas or something local that would be worthwhile? otherwise i'm considering some billet gears for $370

Hmm, Nismo, Jun, Nitto etc all use the shark-fin outer. This pump looks very similar to Nitto and G-reddy pumps, as they have a similar 8-bolt backing plate flange.

Nitto Pump:

Key I guess is the width of the gears (std 11mm) and material.

Is there noone that has used these pumps before?

log in - yea I saw that one too, looks like the same pump - they look ok, but I guess that means f*ck all. Where can you get billet gears for $370?

just had a look and the company is no longer around but JPC sells them for $350

^^ lol why would anyone touch it with their dick?

so you could f*ck it before it has the chance to f*ck your engine.

why would anyone ever take a risk with such a critical engine component. It will end up bad money chasing bad money.

wow ebay can sell some pritty crapy stuff, but if its cheap enough than why not have a go..... when your talking about somthing like a deck chair or a cheap socket set..... but somthing like a Oil pump for a freshly built motor..... Dude just buy a nitto.......

If in fact it is a proper billet oil pump the same as a JUN/Tomei/Nitto then awesome.

Because it would be about Fu(king time good pumps were sold for a realistic price.

Whats interesting is the cost of a 2JZGTE genuine pump and their actual spec. Plus their reliability is second to none. How much? $300 delivered from USA.

Yea, it's quite funny, all of you have just replied exactly what I have gone over in my head - why take a risk like that with an untested product? But then, if it is modeled off a Nitto pump, and has the same quality gears, at a price like that, then how can you go wrong?

Tough decision, I have asked all who are selling them on e-bay to elaborate on the gear size/material so will see what they have to say.

I have pretty much made up my mind on the billet gears for my N1 pump though - roughly the same price for known quality results.

But as N1GTR said, there is no reason we should be able to get a quality pump at a reasonable price.

if you think these big companies make the stuff in house then your off with the fairies, there is quite a possibility it is straight out the back door of the same factory the others are from. I buy cranks from a company that supplies a few majors @ 1/4 the price.. there are other options you just need to validate its source.

if some-one buys it in vic im happy to compare the gearset to a genuine GREDDY item, it would be worth getting the gearset tested.

^^ Agreed..and after comparing all pictures of the genuine 'nitto ' casting and these ones...front and back looks identical everywhere and the only difference i

can see is the rear plate is dull compared to the genuine nitto & phillips head screws used instead of hex.

In fact im going to buy one and get the gears tested for material & hardness.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...