Jump to content
SAU Community

I Cant Hold Boost.

scotty nm35

By scotty nm35,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted
hmm, this sounds good. I could setup a switch to enable the lockup circuit again for when im highway driving (like going to melbourne for my tune)

lol love this ghetto mod. thanks scott.

worth doing it knowing its going to be a little safer being cooled. :P

zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted

are you SURE it actually closes the transmission cooler?

it would seem VERY irregular to stop the transmission cooler from working when youre in a mode where you need it more. are you sure it doesnt restrict the fluid passage to the cooler to increase the pressure in the gearbox? that would make it shift a little faster giving it a 'sports' feel

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
  • Author
Posted
are you SURE it actually closes the transmission cooler?

it would seem VERY irregular to stop the transmission cooler from working when youre in a mode where you need it more. are you sure it doesnt restrict the fluid passage to the cooler to increase the pressure in the gearbox? that would make it shift a little faster giving it a 'sports' feel

I have the full Re5 trans rebuild manual here that says so Iain. Also, I blew my box on the dyno due to overheating in manual, on the stock turbo at 179kw if I remember. In drive there is no problem as the cooling cct is working.

Nissan designed it that way because once the torque converter is locked you dont need cooling. (other than the lockup clutch slipping to buggery as I found out)

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted
I blew my box on the dyno due to overheating in manual, on the stock turbo at 179kw if I remember.

You sure that was the reason bud?

Wouldn't have something more to do with the Dextron that was in it?

Pretty sure that our trans can deal with 180awkw... even in manual mode.

Nissan designed it that way because once the torque converter is locked you dont need cooling. (other than the lockup clutch slipping to buggery as I found out)

hmm... this doesn't explain why the transmission lever (just above the shift gate) is still cool and my PWR cooler is damn hot whenever I get home from work (~30mins highway travel)

Shouldn't this be the other way around if the cooler is bypassed once the torque converter locks up?

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
  • Author
Posted
You sure that was the reason bud?

Wouldn't have something more to do with the Dextron that was in it?

Pretty sure that our trans can deal with 180awkw... even in manual mode.

hmm... this doesn't explain why the transmission lever (just above the shift gate) is still cool and my PWR cooler is damn hot whenever I get home from work (~30mins highway travel)

Shouldn't this be the other way around if the cooler is bypassed once the torque converter locks up?

I never proved either way, I doubt the fluid ever got changed. I know it has Dextron in it now. :)

Im only going by what the auto joint said, I am looking into the valve body section now, the cooler circuit may well work, now I have seen various reasons for the radiator to overheat at idle like the airlock, it could possibly explain the overheating I was getting.

It still doesn't help me of course, I lock the converter manually with a 12v switch on the dyno, it wont hold in 4th or 5th, only the lower gears, which is understandable as it isnt a very big clutch anyway. With the factory trans ecu softly actuating the lockup, even in manual, it will be slipping and heating the fluid even at stock power levels.

  • 2 months later...
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I finally got around to installing this actuator today, I put a stronger spring on and fit it to the turbo with little hassle.

With no controller it held a stable 17.5 psi, with the BOV grubscrew mod it sat on a steady 19. That's a perfect base to start from I think. :)

Im going to run it up on the dyno tomorrow and see how everything looks but the Emanage logs showed me the AFR's are all good. It certainly feels better, driving around.

post-63525-0-42138800-1295782180_thumb.jpg

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

I finally got around to installing this actuator today, I put a stronger spring on and fit it to the turbo with little hassle.

With no controller it held a stable 17.5 psi, with the BOV grubscrew mod it sat on a steady 19. That's a perfect base to start from I think. :)

Im going to run it up on the dyno tomorrow and see how everything looks but the Emanage logs showed me the AFR's are all good. It certainly feels better, driving around.

EBC !! dont forget

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...