Jump to content
SAU Community

Pulling Rb26 From Bnr32

nuclear_skyline

By nuclear_skyline,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
Posted

Well the time has come it appears to pull the engine - mostly to do the upgrades but also to do my starter motor. We had the car up on the hoist yesterday and holy god is it a tangle of lines and hardware!

From those who have pulled these engines is there any major tricks to getting at things like the starter motor top bolt? Best accessible by taking the oil filter off and getting at it through there? Any hints/tips about the task as a whole would be greatly appreciated. I'm sure we'd get there in the end but having some hints would make like easier as its not exactly like pulling my 240z engine or mini engines... Mini engine out in 25 mins :blink: This will take much longer I fear...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338454-pulling-rb26-from-bnr32/
Share on other sites
payback21 Community Regular

payback21

Posted
Posted

Yer drop from the bottom. Its easier. All plumbing to the turbos will need to be removed so the engine can drop down in between the chassis rails. A couple of power steering lines will also need to be disconnected from the kframe.

Starter motor top bolt needs 14mm short socket, wobbly drive and extensions. Yes they are a pain to do but you can do it with the right tools.

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Will the engine with the turbos and plenum attached fit through the chassis rails? Thats where I thought we'd get hung up... I did have a look at doing it this way but thought it would be a real tight squeeze / not fit through...

jeffworld2 Veteran

jeffworld2

Posted
Posted

Took mine out/ and put it in always through the top, can't do much else in the driveway.

I have taken it out with the gearbox and without, now i tie the box to the roll cage and just push it back a bit leaving it in the car.

much easier to do if you pull turbos off. I can lend you the manual if you want too. I also have an attatchment for the crane which allows you to tilt easily but you lose a bit of height so depends on the crane.

If you drop the gearbox crossmember and tilt the engine back you can more easily get at the starter bolts, i just did it with a ring spanner. Just watch the dumps on the other side

post-26632-1285656411_thumb.jpg

post-26632-1285656402_thumb.jpg

post-26632-1285656396_thumb.jpg

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers Jeff. Thanks for the offer of tools but I think i'll have that one covered - might hit you up for the manual though :P Is yours electronic or hardcopy?

Confirms a few things. I want to pull the box anyway to fix a couple of noisy bearings in it so should be a good time had by all on the day its coming out. Now re-booked in for the 11th Oct. Just after the cruise... Might need a hand clutch starting the bugger if it doesnt work on the day :blink:

jangles Veteran

jangles

Posted
Posted

ive pulled 3 out, one with the gearbox attached,

took around 3 hours.

have to take out the driver CV joint and it just likes to catch on the metal lines above it,prise it off. thats all!

make sure you undo both nuts on the engine mounts (found this easier)

i just undid the front pipes, had no issues with the turbos with dumps still connected.

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
  • Author
Posted
God bless my HR31 engine bay, no ABS etc room amore :happy:

Its funny you know - I always looked at the engine in the car and went "The Japs were awesome to build this and fit it all in..." Now I look at it and curse!

With my 70 Cooper S I can get the engine out in 20-30mins and 30-40 back in and running. This will be a nightmare comparitively. Swapsies?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Oh it still takes me just as long - i have issues with RB25 gearbox in a HR31 shell so it's gotta be dropped from the bottom...

Still a cvnt load easier.

But yes, definately easier to go from the bottom IMO.

It can be done from the top as well though, just more time consuming and careful leaverage when the motor is on the crane to get it over the rad support etc.

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
  • Author
Posted
we used to do all of them by dropping it down, far easier and quicker. Think i have some pics somewhere. Becomes a 2hr operation instead of a 3-4hr head fck.

Thanks Trent. Some pics would be great. More info I have before I drop it, better it will go.... Can't wait to throw the goodies i've bought on!

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
what issues? sure the tunnell cops a bit of a beating but it comes out the top easily enough

I bet you don't have a fully seam welded engined bay thats been filled & painted in most area's :P

Gotta be veeeery careful :happy:

femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted

Ive done both ways and I reckon top out is better.

Sure it comes out the bottom way in 2 hours BUT then you gotta remove the engine and box off of the k frame, put k frame back in to get the car mobile, disconnect suspensions etc etc. I know you have to do at least the drivers side, but still....

Once you get the intake piping and cooler piping and radiator out, theres plenty of room.

Drop the box xmember down to get the top bellhousing bolts then put it back up.

A ratchet spanner is your friend for the top starter bolt.

Each to their own.

Try both ways...good practice :happy:

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted
I bet you don't have a fully seam welded engined bay thats been filled & painted in most area's :wub:

Gotta be veeeery careful :)

yer that wouldnt help

white engine bay with lots of black decoration (grime n shit) makes it easier not to care :)

fatz Grand Master

fatz

Posted
Posted

drop sub frame down to the last threads on the bolts

put the driverside shaft out

reef it out the top 3 hours tops with two poeple( will take longer if you have not dont the top gearbox bolts before or the starter motor before)

if you have a hoist straight out the bottom maybe 2 hours

you dont need to pull the turbo either way (that is massive waste of time and 40 times easier to do when the engine is out)

lol.. pull turbos off... lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...