Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Ok, story so far: My r34 gtt (pull type clutch) went in for a clutch change, the mechanic took everything bar the gearbox off, and that's where we're up to. We CANNOT get the gearbox off. We've tried using crowbars and what happens is the gearbox moves away from the engine before snapping back on to it.

The mechanic reckons it's the clutch and pressure plate grabbing and that the only solution now is to cut a hole in the bottom of the gearbox to get at the pressure plate screws.

Does this sound normal? Surely this isn't a rare problem with these cars?

Thanks in advance

Edited by Galois
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338455-help-gearbox-stuck/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

Ok, story so far: My r34 gtt (pull type clutch) went in for a clutch change, the mechanic took everything bar the gearbox off, and that's where we're up to. We CANNOT get the gearbox off. We've tried using crowbars and what happens is the gearbox moves away from the engine before snapping back on to it.

The mechanic reckons it's the clutch and pressure plate grabbing and that the only solution now is to cut a hole in the bottom of the gearbox to get at the pressure plate screws.

Does this sound normal? Surely this isn't a rare problem with these cars?

Thanks in advance

Sounds like he hasnt unclipped the release bearing.

Here is the DIY:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...Gu-t268118.html

He hadn't, but by the time I got there he'd already sawed the hole and was undoing the pressure plate. Not sure how he plans to put it all together without undoing that clip though, I guess he'll figure it out.

The flywheel bearing was fkd too, as well as the uni-joints and center bearing, which have to be replaced. This has been such a mission.

OUCH i would be so dirty. ive just got images running through my head of this guy with his arm reaching through this big ass hole saying its gonna cost more than quoted cos its such a nightmare job.

Cheers for the condolences. Currently looking at calling the nrma and the automative traders thingy tomorrow, as well as some skyline expert mechanics tomorrow to figure out what the hell is going on, where I stand and what to do next (if you have any suggestions please let me know!).

Kinda upset about it to be honest, but as long as he doesn't charge me for all the fking around labour I guess I'll have to put it behind me...

yeah even if "the clutch and pressure plate were grabbing" you can still take the pivot out of the clutch fork to slip off the box. Make sure you don't get a bill and I would be asking him to provide a replacement bell housing too (making sure it's a pull clutch type). post up your progress

So... any ideas what I do now? He was pretty confrontational about it when I pointed out the r-clip and the clutch fork under the boot...

He was being confrontational because he has NO idea. Trying to hide his ignorance.

I called 4 specialist mechanics in Sydney this morning who were recommended in a sau nsw thread, and they were all shocked. One even said "he was just joking with you mate" before I told him he'd already sawed the hole. All I got was a shocked silence in response.

Fk I wish I'd just driven to a specialist and didn't have this problem. Where can I get a new bell housing?

I think you really need to get it out if that shop asap, if he wants to charge you for the work done up to the hole cutting bit then he should also then pay up for a replacement bell housing. I wouldn't be asking him to swap bellhousings over either. If he's not up for paying for a replacement bellhousing then I don't see why he should ask you to pay for his lack of expertise.

He's going to say the bell housing is still structurally sound, how do I get this investigated? I assume this will involve x-ray scanning. Is there potential for the original part to be welded back in or will that just be a bandaid?

He's going to say the bell housing is still structurally sound, how do I get this investigated? I assume this will involve x-ray scanning. Is there potential for the original part to be welded back in or will that just be a bandaid?

I wouldn't actually expect him to front up with a new or replacement bellhousing but what he has done has devalued the car even if it is welded up, and it's something that shouldn't have been done to start with if he'd had any idea what to do. The next place you go should be able to advise you on this, depends on the size and location of the hole. I would get a quote from a wreckers for replacement bellhousing (and factor in labour to change it over) so you have an idea of possible cost he has unnecessarily incurred.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...