Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

AS most should know I am in Eastern Europe atm, I have a client who wish's to buy a R34 GTR.

He is not sure to get a V-spec or a standard one, or one thats slightly modded.

What he does want it a fine example of the car for a good base model to modify later on OR have some "tastefull" mods allready on the car done the right way.

Would be good to know when it comes to 34 gtr's the average mileage on engine, how when is best to buy ? which models to avoid or which ones to seek?

Any info would be appreciated, we have many means of importing the car here so thats not a issue, even a private sale could wok for us.

The Client will be registering on the forums and im sure he will have many questions !

So any ideas ?

Thanks guys

Anthony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338895-buying-a-r34-gtr-in-japan/
Share on other sites

I know these guys personally : http://www.global-auto.ne.jp

Talk to Tsukasa Matsumoto, he speaks good English and will get anything you want, and give you all the advice you need about local Japanese GT-Rs.

Seriously give them a look before anyone else, they're very well known in Kansai and I've seen/driven a number of their cars (not only GT-Rs).

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 years later...

I know these guys personally : http://www.global-auto.ne.jp

Talk to Tsukasa Matsumoto, he speaks good English and will get anything you want, and give you all the advice you need about local Japanese GT-Rs.

Seriously give them a look before anyone else, they're very well known in Kansai and I've seen/driven a number of their cars (not only GT-Rs).

My apologies for bringing this thread back from the dead, but I have considered contacting Tsukasa and cannot find a way to contact him\her

Can anyone help?

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...