Alternator Changed...but Still No Charge

[Nismo_God]

hi all,

i have fitted a 2nd hand alternator and no charge.

could it be another dud alternator?

what else could make an alternator not charge? i have checked the alt fuse and its good...checked all the other fuses and all good....

really want to get it back on the road this weekend....any help would be appreciated.

thanks!!

[byebye]

dud alternator or u might of blown a fusible link is it charging at the back of the alternator?

[Nismo_God]

nah no charge at back of alternator....thats where i have been testing it....

[scotty nm35]

nah no charge at back of alternator....thats where i have been testing it....

Do you have all the plugs connected? The regulator wont work without the thin wires hooked up.

[Nismo_God]

I only have one thin wire, and I hooked it up. Sourced another alternator so fingers crossed it's just that. Thanks

[koduRB25det]

hi all,

i have fitted a 2nd hand alternator and no charge.

could it be another dud alternator?

what else could make an alternator not charge? i have checked the alt fuse and its good...checked all the other fuses and all good....

really want to get it back on the road this weekend....any help would be appreciated.

thanks!!

Did u check for any voatage drop between alt + and bat +. it must be less than 0. same time check the Continuity test...?

[TALBO]

Have you measured at the battery and how do you know the battery isn't shagged?

[Nismo_God]

battery and + from alternator is the same voltage....

what is a continuity test?

its a new battery with 12.8v when charged....so battery is fine...

changed the alternator again and no charge....so either got another dud alternator or something else is stuffed....is there a way i can test the alternator itself? ie not connected to the car?

i have connected the thin black with that has the 10mil bolt....i have connected the earth clip...i have connected the positive to the alternator...am i missing anything?

[Sifty33]

hey mate i just had a look at the alternator on my r32 and it has 1 large black wire (earth) one large white wire which runs to the battery, it also has 2 thin wires but i cant really see where they go although i think one of the thin wires should go to the battery or a 12v feed and somtimes these wires burn out due to the constant voltage running through them, also there would have to be a wire going to the dash for the charge light? does the charge light stay on when the car is running?

i have probaly been no help whatsoever but you never know

corin

[scotty nm35]

Dash light needs to be connected for some reason, I havent seen the schematics for these charge circuits but I have heard of similar problems on VL's.

[Nismo_God]

maybe that wire to the dash has burnt out...there was only the one thin wire to the alternator when i was taking it off...

does anyone know how to test if this wire is the fault?

[Sifty33]

maybe that wire to the dash has burnt out...there was only the one thin wire to the alternator when i was taking it off...

does anyone know how to test if this wire is the fault?

hey the wire going to the dash wouldnt burn out, but maybe that wire doesnt come straight off the alternator on an r33, there needs to be 2 wires going to the battery or a 12v source (a feed and a return) im a 99% sure of this.

what i would try would be to join onto the thin wire at the alternator and run it to the + on the battery and see if that fixes it, you can always join the wire back up if it doesnt work, but i think it would definatly be worth a try.

corin

[gfunkk]

Sorry to jim in but the other day at the track my voltage dropped from 13.6 to 11.8 and there was this whizzing sound coming from under my dash

I unplugged the box next to fuse panel that was making the noise and my rev needed went dead, the noise stopped but the volts didn’t change.. so i just plugged it back in

Then on the way home the volts slowly dropped to 11.1

So im replacing my alternator, hopefully that will fix this problem?

Edited October 4, 2010 by gfunkk

[TALBO]

Measure its output at the battery first with the car on before you change it.

[t_revz]

i dont have the same model alternator as you but see if the thin wire to back of alternator has ignition 12v to it. if not there could be a prob with the excitation circuit depending on how that model works. you already he done alternator and doesnt sound like battery problem. if there is no power at back of alternator on the thin wire connect multimeter to battery of alternator circuit and quickly touch alternator + to thin wire terminal and see if it springs to life.

[gfunkk]

Sorry to jim in but the other day at the track my voltage dropped from 13.6 to 11.8 and there was this whizzing sound coming from under my dash

I unplugged the box next to fuse panel that was making the noise and my rev needed went dead, the noise stopped but the volts didn’t change.. so i just plugged it back in

Then on the way home the volts slowly dropped to 11.1

So im replacing my alternator, hopefully that will fix this problem?

just an update if anyone cares, my voltage regulator was f'd

costed me $220 for a full rebuild

[Nismo_God]

Problem resolved. The wire from the alternator to the dash failed. Can't believe that's all it was. Cars working like a dream. Thanks everyone!

[scotty nm35]

Problem resolved. The wire from the alternator to the dash failed. Can't believe that's all it was. Cars working like a dream. Thanks everyone!

So they are the same design as VL, I couldnt believe the alternator stops working if the dash light circuit fails but thats the way it seems to be wired.

Does that mean if the dash bulb blows you're not charging?