Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all. I just bought some HIDs for my r33 skyline. They are great, really pleased.

but... the new wiring for the new globes means that I cannot get the caps back on the headlights as the new wiring will be squashed. really didnt want to hack up the wire so I can return it to stock if i have to. needs the caps because i dont want dust or water in there.

any good ideas from people who have done this before? pics would be awesome

thanks

...sorry to get all "dad" on you here...

but R33 have reflector headlights.. HIDs are generally used on projector headlights because of the single direction that projectors give..

generally speaking- R33 have reflectors.. and - VERY badly corroded headlight lenses.. a lot of people will opt for HID because their lights are "weak"

a lot of the "weakness" is because people don't take care of their headlights, when you put HIDs on them - it just makes the problem worse because you have even MORE light which shines off in every other direction.. which is gay..

all i'm saying is - if you went a ghetto plug n play HID kit - i hope you cleaned and reonditioned your headlights FIRST... if not - RECONDITION them!!!!

to summarize on reflector lights the light showers here there and every where. it gets a lot worse when the lens isn't crystal clear... light literally dissipates into a million thousand different directions.. one kit I recommend is glassylite.. 40 a kit and it gets best results ever.. available from auto1.. my results are in attached picture.. sorry to off topic you but i'm just saying hid isn't the only answer.. you should recon lenses even as support..

post-13494-1286173981_thumb.jpg

post-13494-1286174090_thumb.jpg

Hi all. I just bought some HIDs for my r33 skyline. They are great, really pleased.

but... the new wiring for the new globes means that I cannot get the caps back on the headlights as the new wiring will be squashed. really didnt want to hack up the wire so I can return it to stock if i have to. needs the caps because i dont want dust or water in there.

any good ideas from people who have done this before? pics would be awesome

thanks

To reply to your question, what you were meant to do was actually cut a big hole on cap, so you can fit all your wires and stuff through.

Not sure about your HID kit, but mine came with a litte rubber plug, that plugs into that big hole that you'd cut, so nothing can get into the headlight.

If your HID kit didn't come with the rubber plug, then I guess use some sort of tape or something.

To reply to your question, what you were meant to do was actually cut a big hole on cap, so you can fit all your wires and stuff through.

Not sure about your HID kit, but mine came with a litte rubber plug, that plugs into that big hole that you'd cut, so nothing can get into the headlight.

If your HID kit didn't come with the rubber plug, then I guess use some sort of tape or something.

+1 to this

AHA! thats what that rubber plug is for! It wasnt explained in the instructions, that makes perfect sence now. I will do that next week. Thanks for that!

In reference to my headlights I have used the restore kit and my lenses are in great, near new looking condition. The reflaectors appear in very good condition and mine is a genuine low k one aust owner car which prob helps. I only bought HIDs because i like the look and do a bit of night driving so the extra light helps

thanks guys!

drive up the road.. and get a mate to drive towards you and see if the light gets in his eyes... some lights arent designed for HIDs and glare horribly in others eyes.. check if yours do this as its dangerous and f**king annoying..

Hi all. I just bought some HIDs for my r33 skyline. They are great, really pleased.

but... the new wiring for the new globes means that I cannot get the caps back on the headlights as the new wiring will be squashed. really didnt want to hack up the wire so I can return it to stock if i have to. needs the caps because i dont want dust or water in there.

any good ideas from people who have done this before? pics would be awesome

thanks

Just put a slight notch on the side of the cap, then slide the wire into the notch. This will enable you to put the cap back on without squashing the wire.

it wasn't explained in the instructions??

it's probably because your instructions looked a bit like this..

hieroglyphics.jpg

I think that says.... put a bird into your headlight and it will hold your HID bulb in place? No? lol

Just put a slight notch on the side of the cap, then slide the wire into the notch. This will enable you to put the cap back on without squashing the wire.

i fitted a set last night and did the exact same thing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...