Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Couple of quick questions... and befoore you ask i have alread done a heap of seaching over the net.

Looking at purchasing either a HKS or similar branded Tourque Split Controller, i understand how they work i just want to know if it is possible to use them in a full 0%front/100%rear setup without doing any damage to the transfer case ect.. or if there is a minimum amount of touque that should be sent to the front ??

I dont want to run with a 0/100 set up all the time, only every now and then for some fun but not at the expense of doing damage, i was thinking if i got a TSC that i could set up with a 10% front/ 90% rear tourque split it would still allow me to drift without doing any damage or am i completely of the mark?

I only ask this because i no its not a problem to turn it completley off on the R32's but have heard it is not so good for the R33's.

Any help would be great.

Cheers Matt

A couple of things:

Almost every torque split controller does not let you set a fixed torque percentage. They just allow you to increase the amount of front torque over what the attessa system would do on it's own. The HKS Kansai controller is the only one I am aware of that lets you do a fixed split

R33's attessa pump has some pressure in the line at all times, this means it is always running at least a little front torque. It has been proven over and over again that the only safe way to run 2wd in a 33/34 is to remove the front driveshaft - luckily that only takes 5 min and 4 bolts.

The 2WD mode from the manual works 100% and does not damage anything.

I have confirmed on the hoist and on the street there is no preload on the transfer case when in 2WD mode. I also was in 2WD for the whole weekend at Powercruise and nothing is broken.

R33's attessa pump has some pressure in the line at all times, this means it is always running at least a little front torque. It has been proven over and over again that the only safe way to run 2wd in a 33/34 is to remove the front driveshaft - luckily that only takes 5 min and 4 bolts.

Bit longer than that Dunc.. You need to remove a horizontal chassis brace and the clutch slave cylinder too. You will also need a very slim ring spanner to get the nuts off. Tip get a cheapo spanner and grind away some material around the ring, and use a second spanner for leverage if the bolts have never been off before (very tight).

Beware though, you may have to bleed attessa after putting the shaft back in. I can't confirm that for sure, but it has been suggested to me since putting the shaft back in and not getting enough torque to the front that i need to bleed mine. I will confirm that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...