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(tsc)torque Split Controller For Gtr R33..


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Couple of quick questions... and befoore you ask i have alread done a heap of seaching over the net.

Looking at purchasing either a HKS or similar branded Tourque Split Controller, i understand how they work i just want to know if it is possible to use them in a full 0%front/100%rear setup without doing any damage to the transfer case ect.. or if there is a minimum amount of touque that should be sent to the front ??

I dont want to run with a 0/100 set up all the time, only every now and then for some fun but not at the expense of doing damage, i was thinking if i got a TSC that i could set up with a 10% front/ 90% rear tourque split it would still allow me to drift without doing any damage or am i completely of the mark?

I only ask this because i no its not a problem to turn it completley off on the R32's but have heard it is not so good for the R33's.

Any help would be great.

Cheers Matt

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A couple of things:

Almost every torque split controller does not let you set a fixed torque percentage. They just allow you to increase the amount of front torque over what the attessa system would do on it's own. The HKS Kansai controller is the only one I am aware of that lets you do a fixed split

R33's attessa pump has some pressure in the line at all times, this means it is always running at least a little front torque. It has been proven over and over again that the only safe way to run 2wd in a 33/34 is to remove the front driveshaft - luckily that only takes 5 min and 4 bolts.

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The 2WD mode from the manual works 100% and does not damage anything.

I have confirmed on the hoist and on the street there is no preload on the transfer case when in 2WD mode. I also was in 2WD for the whole weekend at Powercruise and nothing is broken.

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R33's attessa pump has some pressure in the line at all times, this means it is always running at least a little front torque. It has been proven over and over again that the only safe way to run 2wd in a 33/34 is to remove the front driveshaft - luckily that only takes 5 min and 4 bolts.

Bit longer than that Dunc.. You need to remove a horizontal chassis brace and the clutch slave cylinder too. You will also need a very slim ring spanner to get the nuts off. Tip get a cheapo spanner and grind away some material around the ring, and use a second spanner for leverage if the bolts have never been off before (very tight).

Beware though, you may have to bleed attessa after putting the shaft back in. I can't confirm that for sure, but it has been suggested to me since putting the shaft back in and not getting enough torque to the front that i need to bleed mine. I will confirm that.

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