Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

did a bit of a search but came up empty. Google turned up this:

ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.

2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.

2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).

2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.

3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.

4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)

5. Wait about 10 second.

6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.

7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).

8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

Edit: Added the "Easy Method" for ECU Reset

The Easy Method:

After experimenting with different timing, and reading posts by other members, I've come up with a condensed method of doing this reset. This method works EVERY time, even w/o a stopwatch. I've used this method successfully a dozen times, or so, now w/o a watch. After a few times, you won't need a watch or instructions. You'll get so darn good at it, you'll find yourself doing it while waiting at a traffic light.

Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thousand, etc, or use stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7.

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.

2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.

3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal

4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal

5. Count to 10, depress pedal

6. Count to 10, release pedal.

7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

Will disconnecting the battery be an even easier option? Or does anyone have another procedure lol? Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/
Share on other sites

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.

2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.

3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal

4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal

5. Count to 10, depress pedal

6. Count to 10, release pedal.

7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

Will disconnecting the battery be an even easier option? Or does anyone have another procedure lol? Thanks.

Disconnecting battery doesn't seem to work... unless you leave it off for a few days I guess.

That procedure is the same as our M35 Stagea's

Just a quick note, Step 4 above is where the ECU displays any error codes so perhaps it would be a good idea to write them down before moving on to step 5. :laugh:

Also, I compiled a (long) list of error codes that are applicable to V35, M35 etc for future reference.

Edited by iamhe77
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5479956
Share on other sites

what reason would one have to need to reset the ECU??

Mainly when U get new mechanical mods, for example things like resetting the knock sensor so the ignition timing is accurate after you've added say a throttle-body spacer, resetting the O2 sensor if you've installed HFC or even something as minor as a Z-tube. IMO Any kind of mod to the intake/exhaust and engine (i.e. bigger injectors) will require an ECU reset. In doing that, the ECU 'learns' your driving style and makes any necessary adjustments. Also, if you want to clear any error codes (e.g. airbag light flashing) an ECU reset does the job.

P.S: I've even heard of people resetting the ECU after an Oil change. I don't, however, I don't have any arguments against it so I won't go into it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5484560
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Mainly when U get new mechanical mods, for example things like resetting the knock sensor so the ignition timing is accurate after you've added say a throttle-body spacer, resetting the O2 sensor if you've installed HFC or even something as minor as a Z-tube. IMO Any kind of mod to the intake/exhaust and engine (i.e. bigger injectors) will require an ECU reset. In doing that, the ECU 'learns' your driving style and makes any necessary adjustments. Also, if you want to clear any error codes (e.g. airbag light flashing) an ECU reset does the job.

P.S: I've even heard of people resetting the ECU after an Oil change. I don't, however, I don't have any arguments against it so I won't go into it.

How does the ECU learn?

Is it through time spent at different speeds, average speeds, and rates of acceleration or what? Is it always adjusting and if so why would a reset be necessary?

My LPG Emer sequential vapour injection system was recently installed.

These systems piggyback off the ECU I believe and learn how to operate on LPG based on the ECU.

I am thinking of resetting the ECU as I believe my LPG system should be getting better mileage. However as I am in a remote area I am concerned I may somehow stuff up the motor with no assistance within a few hours drive. Currently 6km / litre on LPG everything else seems fine, easy to start ,good acceleration high speed overtaking no problem.

Before the conversion I was getting around 7km to 9km a litre on petrol dending on speed and driving style. I should be getting only 10 % to 15% worse but I have been told it could be as little as 5 %.

Straight after conversion I drove 2500km on the highway in 2 days. I can’t return to the installer until next year.

Vehicle - 1996 non turbo automatic skyline GTS

Any thoughts as to poor LPG fuel consumption immediately after conversion.

i havent run on petrol since conversion as it is a $1-60 a litre on average

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5500787
Share on other sites

Disconnect the battery and pump the brake peddle 5 times.

Would the above be for all nissan vehicles or just V series motors?

How long after resetting to factory settings does the system stabilise to a new driver.

is it the time and engine is on or km driven

Under what conditions is the ECU modifying the system or does it do it continuously every second !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5500801
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Ok try the long way.

The ECU Resetting Procedures Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.

2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.

2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).

2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.

3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.

4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)

5. Wait about 10 second.

6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.

7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).

8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. :)

If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5531994
Share on other sites

how do u know if u have reset the ecu. Im interested in resetting mine as i have recently bought the car a few months ago and fuel consumption is pretty high. Will resetting the ECU help??

getting 450km per tank on a good day, 370km when i drive with a bit of a lead foot.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5532164
Share on other sites

how do u know if u have reset the ecu. Im interested in resetting mine as i have recently bought the car a few months ago and fuel consumption is pretty high. Will resetting the ECU help??

getting 450km per tank on a good day, 370km when i drive with a bit of a lead foot.

There is a common problem with the V35 and the fuel gauge. You might need it cleaned/replaced. when it's on the red line "E" you could have a 1/4 tank left. Maybe.

You should get 550km on a good tank.

Edited by V35_Paul
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5532463
Share on other sites

tried again....about 20 times, im getting .1-.2 seconds off wen im lapping the stopwatch to the next step and im still getting nothing...should i be trying something different or getting closer - things im thinking i might be doing wrong -

1 - the first step im doing wrong , when do i start counting the first three seconds as soon as i put on the ignition to on or wait till at check light goes off?

2 - also maybe the 5 press and let go (second step), at after the 3 seconds(1st step) is it 1 in and out per seconds or it doesnt matter because im doing it within 3-4 seconds and continuing if i finish the second step before 5 seconds say 3.5 do i wait till 5 seconds then start next step?

Edited by ezy03
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5532827
Share on other sites

tried again....about 20 times, im getting .1-.2 seconds off wen im lapping the stopwatch to the next step and im still getting nothing...should i be trying something different or getting closer - things im thinking i might be doing wrong -

1 - the first step im doing wrong , when do i start counting the first three seconds as soon as i put on the ignition to on or wait till at check light goes off?

2 - also maybe the 5 press and let go (second step), at after the 3 seconds(1st step) is it 1 in and out per seconds or it doesnt matter because im doing it within 3-4 seconds and continuing if i finish the second step before 5 seconds say 3.5 do i wait till 5 seconds then start next step?

1. As soon as you turn it "On".

2. Doesn't matter how quick as long as it's within 5 sec. When the peddle is fully out start counting your 7 sec.

If it's not working maybe your problem can not go away with a reset.

What is the problem your having? Why do you need a reset?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5532856
Share on other sites

installed a few mods and it said to reset it, might get my cai in next week and let the place im getting installed at do it, save me the hassle

You don't need to reset it. You can just drive the car around and the ECU will adjust it's self to the new mods. A few hours of driving will do it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/#findComment-5533252
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...