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As it says,

I'm after info on all the Mitsubishi / Trust TD-06 turbos incuding all variants such as the TE-06, T67 etc etc

Looking for one for my Soarer and there a billion different options but mainly looking at the TD06 20G with the small 8cm turbine housing, due to the car being auto I want stock boost response or better and be able to make ~260rwks on Pump Unleaded through the auto. (yes I know the stock turbos will make that, but for how long?)

So i know there are a few RB20 guys making around the 260-280rwkw through a manual.

But will the little exhaust housing choke the 1jz (2.5L)? Should I be looking for a 25G or an L2 model?

the 25G is quite hard to get compared to the 20g and 20GL2.

Then there is the T67, which shares the turbine wheel and housing with the L2 but runs a td07 comp wheel and housing, so may be a little laggy for what I want?

SO who can add more?

Andrew

Quick edit - Will be external gate.

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Hey Zebra!

Don't do it, the 20G is what they use on evos to get them up to the 250ish awkw mark. You are really going to be selling yourself short if you run that small a turbo.

For the effort of running custom manifold and gate you should look to something that will yield better results. If you are chasing response, consider the 52 trim 3076. I just took delivery of my jz today, I will be running the stock turbos for a while. Just out of curiosity, have you looked at the drag times thread on toymods? Some people are running the JZZ30 into the low 11s on the factory CT12A, one or two even into the 10s.

I am honestly not of much use when it comes to running the TD06-25G on one of these motors BUT seriously, dont underestimate this motor.. You wouldnt put a 20G on an RB25.. Which means you would be damned to try the same on this thing :P

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yeah ive seen those times, but what most of them arnt saying is that they are on their 2nd or 3rd set of turbos, I want the same sort of performance but with reliability, rather than running 200000k old ct12a's

hence wanting the td06 a 25G would be the best bet I know, but like I said they are harder to get, A new manifold is no dearer than a set of decent dump pipes for the stock turbos etc.

the 1jz are quite lethargic below 3000rpm with the stock twins so I think a 20G with a small turbine housing will make an awesome streeter, and if Canberra ever gets it drag strip back I have a rather modified TD-07S sitting here if I ever want 400rwks

there are a couple of guys on here with 300rwks using the L2 so that might be the go for what I want.

Oh PS there is a set of brand new jzz30 spec ct12a's on Ebay.com for about 900 bucks if you are intersted.

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I wont be staying with the CT12's for long, Ill probably try and break them first then ditch them for a garrett.

I honestly think a garrett is better suited to your needs than one of these turbos, but I would be interested to see your results either way.

Perhaps look at:

http://www.gtpumps.com.au/trust_turbos.html

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Why wouldnt you run a 20G on an RB25? A friend use to run one and it was an animal! Made 270rwkws and no GT-RS, 3071 etc coyuld match it. He then went 25G and it made way more power, 330-340rwkws but there was a huge difference in character of the car and by character I mean response.

Also, the TD06L2-20G does not run the TD07 comp wheel per se. The 20G is the comp wheel, ditto the 25G etc. So a T78-29D is bigger, so is the T78-33d. You need to look at what comes after the - to see what is happening with the compressor side.

Unless you are going ext gate I would stick with the Garrett based turbos as they seem to have better internal gates.

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Then there is the T67, which shares the turbine wheel and housing with the L2 but runs a td07 comp wheel and housing, so may be a little laggy for what I want?

Quick edit - Will be external gate.

Read it again Roy :P

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The T67 is T67-25G. Never seen any other type of T67 so it doesnt run a TD07 comp wheel. It runs the same compressor as the TD06H-25G, so the only difference between a T67-25G and the TD06H-25G is the exhaust wheel. For what you want I think its too big...ie both are too big.

The reason you see the T67 on SR20s as I am told the turbine has more/different pitch blades so spools up a little better. I have never put a friends T67 side by side with either my 20G or 25G....although i know my current TD06SH-20G is running the 8cm housing off his T67 as he wanted my old 10cm

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So you can see the L2 and T67 have the same 11 blade wheels with the same pitch, where as my TD06H-25G has 12 blades and steeper pitch so would probably spool better but be a tad more restrictive. So perhaps the story i was told about T67 being an SR20 turbo because of its exhaust wheel and the TD06H-25G being an RB25 turbo is wrong ??? :P

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He makes 270rwkws on that other other type of dyno, hub is it???... whatever they are called. A friend made 270 with a 20G on his RB25. But I cant see them ever making 300rwkws on a Dyno Dynamics...not a chance. I know of a well buit and tuned SR20 making 273 or so....all with the 8cm housing.

If you want a bit more power then go the 10cm housing. With the 2.5L i dont think you will miss a lot of response and bet you get a nicer power band with a bit more top end power and wider power band.

Also, the whole TD06L2 vs TD06SH comparison. Tim and me have very similar cars, exhaust, cooler, mods etc are all the same. He has the L2, me the SH. There is no difference in them. Tuned by the same tuner, on the same dyno, but mine on 100 his on 98 my car had more response and something like 1kw more, but it did come on a bit earlier. So put that down to the 3deg more ignition accross the map....and really, there is more to be gained or lost based on other variables rather then whether you are running an L2 or SH. Both setups stop making power at about 20psi so its not as though one even flows better and allowed more boost and top end....it was all much of a muchness

If i didnt believe that I wouldnt be selling the L2 i have ona shelf and keeping the SH.

Edited by Roy
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