Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Your commitment is unbelievable but why a gtst?. With all due respect wouldn't a rough 32r as a base have been more worth the sweat and cussing that a project like this involves? A rough 32r starter like this would have been fairly well priced? Please don't take the wrong way I just don't see the logic. Regardless thumbs up for a thorough build.

I'm digging the audio selection-

Stock looking- but hiding some nice gear.

yep! and if I decide to do anything decent in there that deck will still stay there. in all honesty that deck will do fine for what I want. hell my van has the stock radio in it and I have no intention of changing it.

Nice brake selection, i am also looking at those for my 32 build

ta! blame 'roy' for it.

ive got a burgandy gtr bootlid + spoiler, want to swap for your black one :P /too bad not in Vic!

Ive heard rumours that the gtr bootlid doesnt sit flush on GTST? Can you confirm. How is the fitment?

fits fine on the left side and flush on hte rear edge. can't comment on the right side for obvoius reasons.

Your commitment is unbelievable but why a gtst?. With all due respect wouldn't a rough 32r as a base have been more worth the sweat and cussing that a project like this involves? A rough 32r starter like this would have been fairly well priced? Please don't take the wrong way I just don't see the logic. Regardless thumbs up for a thorough build.

no offence taken :) I am doing this car simply because I didnt want a GTR. but if you look at it from a money POV I'm not out to make a profit on this car. I have had plenty of customers cars over the years that have spent $15-20K on the engine alone. I haven't. build for this car will probably be $15-19k overall. most of the 32's I see have been bent in some way and that includes the GTRs. a decent GTR roller still goes for silly money and I still have the rust issue to deal with in rear of the car. one of the toowoomba guys bought a runner for $25k + and still had to fix the rear of the car. in my case I will know that there is no rust in the car at all.

I build cars because I enjoy it basically :)

one of the toowoomba guys bought a runner for $25k + and still had to fix the rear of the car. in my case I will know that there is no rust in the car at all.

I build cars because I enjoy it basically :)

Is that my GTR your talking about by any chance Chris?nyaanyaa.gif

Oh I got a set of quater glass trims off Nissan at the end of last week. Got mine for $135 a side but that was my bosses buying price seeing as he buys well over 30k worth of parts off them each year

price for qtr glass - I show it as a full assembly so glass/rubber trim and 8mm bolt. are we talking the same piece?

Don't think so. I am talking about the inner trims around the quarter glass that peels

nah already got those. roughly the same price locally in brissy. I am like your boss . I spend a fair bit with metro at windsor. I thought you were talking about the glass. those are $600 or so each..

249562_2133255854207_1330376598_32571305_4021811_n.jpg

new boot panel sitting in place - easier to store it on the car that way it does not get bent.

249840_2133256054212_1330376598_32571306_4770591_n.jpg

putting it back in also allows me to store the tail lights again.

247329_2133256214216_1330376598_32571307_3417370_n.jpg

another shot . looks ok from the back with the GTR stuff in place.

251228_2133256334219_1330376598_32571308_3146628_n.jpg

new roof panel. this has been test fitted already. fits perfectly where I cut the other one off. I'll keep it stored in the box as it was NOT cheap.

247409_2133255574200_1330376598_32571303_8275734_n.jpg

roof part number - sunroof version

253510_2133256534224_1330376598_32571309_2196719_n.jpg

front bumper. GTR version. I had this stored for a while. decided to take a shot of it whilst I was taking other photos. it also stays in the box.

250797_2133256654227_1330376598_32571310_1638587_n.jpg

part number for those playing at home.

253707_2133276134714_1330376598_32571329_6215104_n.jpg

rust removal - phosphate converter used here to reseal the area. it still needs a cleanup

248470_2133276374720_1330376598_32571330_7443440_n.jpg

this is part of a repair job on the drivers side. a fair bit of this area has crap in it. all the sanded area has been rust treated and resealed. the lower sill area I cleaned out so I could find the seams. (this will make sense later when I remove the sills.)

247420_2133276534724_1330376598_32571331_3753243_n.jpg

rust removal - phosphate converter used here to reseal the area. it still needs a cleanup and a 2nd/3rd hit.

255677_2137616723226_1330376598_32577365_2438839_n.jpg

test fit of the roof. perfect. I need to trim a bit more away on the corners. when I cut the old one off I left 10 mm of error there. the original factory seams line up perfectly. that means the roof will drop into place one the trim is done on the body.

there are a couple of areas on the left side drip rail that I was too enthusiastic with and they will need to be re molded into place. the roof panel was lightly bent onthe right rear corner and left front corner. I would call it shipping damage myself. given it was a ex japan piece I'm not overly worried.

a BIG thanks to DUH19 for letting me take 'useless' photos of his car. (white GTR)

I was having issues with the rear inner fuel tank bracket location and the actual bracket shape (FAST listed two different ones.) but it turns out that the bracket IS the same as the one I have here and it simply slides to the left one hole. his car helped me work that out :)

about to do a compression test on the engine - hopefully 150PSI + across all 6.

No problem champion - thanks for fixing the light issue!

ok just found (via a contra deal) GTR fuel tank with straps,GTR BOV setup, turbo inlet/return piping , rear wiper motor with decent threads (mine works but I trashed the threads getting it off.) and a host of other bits and pieces. now to remove it all off this wreck.

pete,

working on it..

did a bit of quick fiddling before I left the shop tonight: the BOV setup all lines up. no holes in a few spots BUT the punch marks are there in the new panels and its a case if drilling them out.

I will spend tomorrow (after I get a car done/out of the shop) pulling all of the wreck apart and looking over things. the subframes are still there and the front one is straight. not sure if thats up for grabs or not.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
×
×
  • Create New...