Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I and a friend are seeing a similar issue with a pair of 2510s on a 32R. Half a bar before 3000 is a piece of piss but it wont start building serious boost till close to 5000.

T-Rex do you have cam gears in yours or no gears? What cams too etc? I find it very strange the two cars suffer from the same problem.

I am also (semi) encouraging my mate to swap to a single, while I dont want him to fork the cash I also think the twin setup is easily flawed by the smallest of issues. In this case its only going 302rwkw where as he could attain the same figure from a 3076 and possibly have a lot of action a lot sooner.

Personally I am also tossing up now between a 35R and a 3076, I have previously run a 3076 for a brief period of time on my RB25 which was not laggy at all. Best description for delivery was like a big T28 on an SR20. Now I am contemplating how to get above 350rwkw without the sacrifice of too much response. The 35R IS the go but just how much response will be sacrificed I dont know.. As mentioned above a thought would be a 3040 with TS 1.06 rear housing. I have considered this setup put together with a high rev limit and a goal of 350rwkw MAX. Yet as stated.. the ATP housings leave some to be desired, a cast that could use some work and the fact its only really a T3 flange despite being TS.

All in all it seems difficult to track down the right info on these housings, I would want to see if the 35R is available in a good T4 TS housing as that may be the key to getting the power AND the delivery out of a sub 3L motor.

If i do find any setups on here with a rb26 running any trim or form of a gt3076 ill post it up here for discussion and compare it with a gt35r. See if the extra lag is worth it.

Wait.. didnt NYTSKY go from a gt3076 to a gt3582r and only 20-30kw more but a heap of more lag?

The interesting one Garrett does is the 0.94 A/R one for the Evo X specific GT3076R , twin scroll twin integral wastegate but with the mirror imaged Evo X mount flange . If you were going to ave a manifold made it could be worth a look .

I though I mentioned it before but GCG reckon Garrett make a GT ball bearing GT3576R turbo for the later XR6 engines , that would get you a larger turbine compared to a GT3076R and possibly do the trick for a torquey street RB30 .

IMO the issue with both GT30 and GT35 UHP turbines is the trim size - 84 trim . I think its too big and Garrett should do what they did to their GT37 and GT40 ball bearing turbines , bring the trim back to 78T to gain better response on petrol engines .

What are the advantages of a twin scroll single turbo to a set of twins?

I find it hard to believe that a single scroll single turbo has more smooth power delivery than twin turbos! As R31Nismoid mentioned those -5s are simply not in their efficiency range at 330rwkw.

Make sure you get a fair representation of each before you make the decision.

What are the advantages of a twin scroll single turbo to a set of twins?

I find it hard to believe that a single scroll single turbo has more smooth power delivery than twin turbos! As R31Nismoid mentioned those -5s are simply not in their efficiency range at 330rwkw.

Make sure you get a fair representation of each before you make the decision.

A single Twin scroll has less plumbing than the twins. May spool earlier by design. Opportunity to high mount (debatable benefit). Either option depends on the turbo engine, entire set up, what you want etc.

A single Twin scroll has less plumbing than the twins. May spool earlier by design. Opportunity to high mount (debatable benefit). Either option depends on the turbo engine, entire set up, what you want etc.

But on the same time the divider is also reducing the snail size, I would consider the twinscroll housing is touch bit smaller then what they are rated to. I persinally didn't notice any difference running a twin scroll or a single with the same CHRA.

But on the same time the divider is also reducing the snail size, I would consider the twinscroll housing is touch bit smaller then what they are rated to. I persinally didn't notice any difference running a twin scroll or a single with the same CHRA.

Always interesting to hear practice over theory. I'm still interested in twil scroll, as an experiment at my cost. BMW and SAAB are running it lately, but that certainly doesn't make it any better!

But on the same time the divider is also reducing the snail size, I would consider the twinscroll housing is touch bit smaller then what they are rated to. I persinally didn't notice any difference running a twin scroll or a single with the same CHRA.

Did you use a proper twin scroll manifold with the twin scroll housing?

But on the same time the divider is also reducing the snail size, I would consider the twinscroll housing is touch bit smaller then what they are rated to. I persinally didn't notice any difference running a twin scroll or a single with the same CHRA.

Agreed on the first half, but everyone I know who has changed to twin scroll with the same (sometimes another "same" CHRA but with different housings, sometimes the exact same turbo but with the turbine housing swapped) CHRA and manifold modifications to suit have improved spool by a few hundred rpm, increased midrange torque by HEAPS and ended up with similar peak power.

The usual idea is to go larger in A/R when converting a given turbocharger to twin scroll , the reason is that you give the cylinders a larger volume and therefore area of lower pressure to blow down into/through .

The whole idea is to increase low and mid range torque by reducing the overlapping exhaust events in a common scroll or volute .

Why big TS housings work is that you reduce the turbine inlet pressure in the two scrolls so you need larger paths to easily vent the gas at the lower pressure . Its a win win for the engine and turbo in all respects except cost and waste gate convenience .

A .

Its a win win for the engine and turbo in all respects except cost and waste gate convenience .

I have been seeing a lot of TS manifolds out with only one wastegate, some of the big jap brands and even 6boost.

I always wonder, when I see known big brand manifolds using one gate on a split manifold, just how much benefit there is to be had in TWO gates.

Reference:

http://image.nengun.com/catalogue/original...oyota_supra.png

Running one gate obviously makes the TS experience a negligible amount more difficult than a regular open housing setup.

the HKS cast manifold would do much the same thing but the wastegate sits directly on top of the manifold with a thin divider. I can't imagine there being too much reversion back into the other bank of cylinders with this.

Completely divorcing them would be the Rolls Royce version but the above version should do the job and save a few dollars.

The usual idea is to go larger in A/R when converting a given turbocharger to twin scroll , the reason is that you give the cylinders a larger volume and therefore area of lower pressure to blow down into/through .

The whole idea is to increase low and mid range torque by reducing the overlapping exhaust events in a common scroll or volute .

Why big TS housings work is that you reduce the turbine inlet pressure in the two scrolls so you need larger paths to easily vent the gas at the lower pressure . Its a win win for the engine and turbo in all respects except cost and waste gate convenience .

A .

Why I'm persevearing with the twin scroll idea, for a while for my set up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
×
×
  • Create New...