Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OOOOOeeee....

Cut a hole in the boot floor and mount the intake/filter in the boot. Then cut a vent behind the licence plate so it can breathe...

if you put a vent behind the number plate you will get exhaust fumes in the cabin area.

  • Replies 206
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah i've decided not to because i may have to drive on gravel roads and it'll suck dust into my boot. And that will destroy all my amps and sub. Haha.

I'm sure marty has thought of the best way to do it.

no updates yet other then i have found new bumpers for my car. Not that exciting for all you fulla's. Should hopefully, might possibly have the car back early this week. However i'm not holding my breath cause i've been told that at least 3 times now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnFA93_U9hY

Any one who says it wont work obviously has no abillity to think outside the box, the huge lag myth has been been eliminated and the water and dirt on/in the turbo and filter is easily fixed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnFA93_U9hY

Any one who says it wont work obviously has no abillity to think outside the box, the huge lag myth has been been eliminated and the water and dirt on/in the turbo and filter is easily fixed.

Yeah, but that is a 5.7L V8, Not a 3L six pot,

GT45's arent laggy on LS1's.

I'm still dubious on the results but I hope it does work.

Yeah, but that is a 5.7L V8, Not a 3L six pot,

GT45's arent laggy on LS1's.

I'm still dubious on the results but I hope it does work.

I'm personally looking at doing it on my 5ltr fairlane but even then I would probably only go a 3540 with a .8 or maybe a 1.0 exhaust housing.

It's not the optimal set up but if you pick the right size turbo it can be a nice little power booster, and with the way the vic cops are if you can mount it high enough and put a cover over it it will keep it stealth.

I'm personally looking at doing it on my 5ltr fairlane but even then I would probably only go a 3540 with a .8 or maybe a 1.0 exhaust housing.

It's not the optimal set up but if you pick the right size turbo it can be a nice little power booster, and with the way the vic cops are if you can mount it high enough and put a cover over it it will keep it stealth.

If you want to do that I would get the smallest turbo you can get away with, the NC fairlane makes 165kws at the flywheel if you only want a bit more than that (say 165kw at the treads then you would only need something like a 28RS, not a 650hp gt35R, bit over kill imo.

yeah. At the end of the day with the stuff i'm doing to the car it will be making more power even if i wasn't putting a turbo in. Seeing as the engine i had was on its way out. I'm hanging out to get it back though. Hopefully the final result is a good one. It'll give me something to build on and hopefully help people who decide to do something simular!

Yeah, but that is a 5.7L V8, Not a 3L six pot,

GT45's arent laggy on LS1's.

I'm still dubious on the results but I hope it does work.

Exactly :ermm:

Also the housing on that turbo is rather small, doesn't look any bigger than a .82 at best.

Very small for such a large capacity motor, and certainly aid alleviate the massive piping addition

did you have a look at the car you mean? Got two brand new bumpers for it so she won't look so bunged up. What coilovers would you recommend? And yeah i'm gonna find some fat, light, inconspicuous looking rims. Any suggestions there either?

did you have a look at the car you mean? Got two brand new bumpers for it so she won't look so bunged up. What coilovers would you recommend? And yeah i'm gonna find some fat, light, inconspicuous looking rims. Any suggestions there either?

S13 coilovers fitt fairly easily I believe... Marty willl be the one to ask. I have HSD's under my pig.

As for rims... I'd get a set of 15" steelies widened as much as possible each end, then put plastic hub caps back on!!!

haha yeah. Plastic hub caps would make it look grandpa spec! I've got standard silvia rims on it i believe. And there only 15's and look fairly low key. I'll shop around and fins some thing that blends in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...