Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

Swapped out my head yesterday due to 10 bent valves. Used all electrics off the old head i.e. TPS, IAC, AAC, looms and injectors went to fire it up got compression and spark but no injector pulse.

Replaced the CAS and went through checked and cleaned all electrical plugs and still nothing.

A little bit stumped on where to go next....

Any suggestions would be great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340798-wheres-my-injector-pulse/
Share on other sites

So when the ignition is on only one side should have 12V? What if both sides still have 12V? Isn't it when the engine is running it's switched to earth so that the injector opens at the right time?

Edited by Phil-085

correct me if my wiring is wrong. blk/red =+12v the other side will show 12v with the engine NOT running. if you get it turning over with a niod light then that light should flash.

I would be checking connections myself.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Have checked all wiring and connections and all are good.

Cant remember where the injector relay is to check it just in case???? But if I have power to the injectors so cant see this being too much of an issue.

Near ready just to take it to an auto electrician and get them to work it out

Ok so there is 3 relays above and 1 beside the fuse box. Which one is the IGN relay? I know its probably a stupid question but hey don't ask don't know

Edited by Phil-085
  • 3 weeks later...

Ok guys so turns out that my timing may be 180 degree out. Does anyone know an easy way to fix this? Have been having trouble finding a mechanic who actually wants to work on the car (one of many downsides to owning an import in a country town)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...