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C34 Stagea Awd System

Bronx

By Bronx,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
Posted

Sorry but I dont quiet understand how this will fully dis-engage the Four wheel drive system as there is a front drive shaft that comes out of the transfer case and into the front diff, thats always spinning.

All I can see this doing is releasing some of the pressure from the front clutch packs and allowing it to slip a shit load, putting it into a a bit of a false form of 2wd and promoting premature clutch pack wear if you ask me....

I say do yourself a favor and remove the four bolts that hold the shaft into the front diff and remove the shaft. (6 bolts if your manual as you'll need to remove the clutch slave to get the shaft out and around your clutch line)

:laugh: Party hats for preventing future expensive attessa repairs!

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bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted (edited)

It works 100%.

It releases ALL pressure from the transfer case, if there was any load on the clutch plates then the front wheels would engage. I have even tested on the hoist, there is not even a hint of movement from the front wheels. If there was any pressure on the clutch plates then one would assume the front wheels would start turning, even a little bit, but that isn't the case.

I'm getting sick of posting up THAT IT WORKS. We have even had an RS4V on the dyno using this method and the transfer case isn't broken.

I beat up on my wagon at Powercruise all weekend in 2WD and my transfer case isn't broken, 4WD still works 100%, when I want it to.

Please stop scaremongering and propagating rumours. If you don't believe me that it works, DO YOUR OWN EXPERIMENTS. If you're too scared to, then don't bother, forget even thinking about it and enjoy your 4wd for what it is.

Edited by bubba
Bronx Mentor

Bronx

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah, the 2wd setup works for me no dramas, when the light is on constantly. sometimes it starts flashing so i turn it back on, just incase something doesent disengage properly, but otherwise, the rwd unplug method does work.

and yeah, mine is manual too

Bronx Mentor

Bronx

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

agreedwith comment above, but does the commonwhore have a 2.5l turbo and looks even 1/10000th as sexy as a stag??

not quite.

oh, and the flashing light means constant 2wd while constant light means error. sometimes i cant get the flashing light to go on, no matter how hard i try, even doing all the steps right, mostly on cold mornings.

Edited by Bronx
pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted
Seriously... if you want a rear wheel drive car, then buy a Commondoor...

thats like saying, if you want awd grip buy a 4x4...

you forget that under the stagea lies the engine, chassis and suspension of a sports car

with awd and selectable rwd

vic stagea mick Rising Star

vic stagea mick

Posted
Posted
I have posted it up a number of times...

But here goes again..

Locate the "air bleed" wire behind the drivers kick panel, it's a plug with a single wire either side (usually green socket, white plug).

Disconnect it.

Start car. As key comes back to the ON position, within 10 seconds, depress brake pedal 5 times, 4WD light will start flashing to indicate you are in 2WD mode.

To go back to 4WD mode, turn car off, reconnect plug and off you go.

I have hooked mine to a switch in the centre console.

any chance of putting a photo on here of the plug as i have never had a look under there but could be very helpfull for people like me so i dont do the wrong thing ..would be good for the deca skid pan days for the extra fun and less trouble than dropping the front drive shaft

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted (edited)
engine and suspension? yes. chassis? no. its a wagon dude. its got plenty of flex and twist in it, unlike sports cars.

flex and twist is mainly in the body

chassis is the same as r33 from radiator support to the c pillars, rear end is the only difference (after the rear suspension)

hence why manual stags have gtr rear diffs, suspension arms, shocks (different valving) and rear cradle

Edited by pipster11
zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted
flex and twist is mainly in the body

chassis is the same as r33 from radiator support to the c pillars, rear end is the only difference (after the rear suspension)

hence why manual stags have gtr rear diffs, suspension arms, shocks (different valving) and rear cradle

Are they really that close in design?

I think they would put in GTR running gear to save cost and time so they arent manufacturing another product for a fairly small run vehicle. compared to other cars they manufacture.

KiwiRS4T: kinda defeats the purpose of getting a wagon with a strut brace :(

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted (edited)

AFAIK the C34 is an R33 chassis up to the C-pillar/rear seats, from there instead of the floorpan heading up towards the parcel shelf it head backwards.

Why would the engineer a new chassis for a relatively small run of parts-bin-special vehicles?

Edited by bubba
zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted (edited)

yeah it lacks that support where the parcel tray would be.

still not a sports car! im not bagging the stagea, i own one, but lets not kid ourselves. that said, its sure as hell built better then anything manufactured in australian

Edited by zei20l
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

I didn't buy a Stagea because I thought it was a sports car (althought a lot of people do, and think they can make it go like a skyline.. which it will.. but one that is 0.5t heavier!).. that's what I have my heavily modified 32gtst for :)

I bought my Stagea because I wanted a practical daily driver (auto and lots of space), looked at commodore wagons of the same era and the build quality difference was chalk and cheese.

The added benefit of "keeping it in the family" meant that I was already familiar with the engine and driveline, and the guy I bought it off had already spent all the big dollars on suspension, turbo etc :(

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